The Saltire Blog

5 Oven Aga Cooker (with ElectricKit Advanced!)

Fri, 24 Apr 2026 17:37:39 GMT

Recently, we added the 5 Oven version of the ElectricKit Advanced to our range.

The 5-Oven Aga Cooker has the largest oven capacity you could ask for! The configuration is comprised of the popular 3-oven Aga Cooker, with an additional hotcupboard fitted to the left-hand side (similar to our 4-oven Aga Cookers).

The hotcupboard section is controlled independently and has a few upgrade options to make it even more flexible.

The 5 oven ElectricKit Advanced is the most flexible system available for Aga Cookers. There's officially no other system that can give you the same level of control as well as ambient heat with efficiency at it's core.

You can upgrade the whole left-hand section to a 'high temp' hotcupboard, allowing up to roasting temperatures in both left-hand ovens. With the 3-oven Aga section on the right, the 5-oven ElectricKit Advanced gives you a huge capability of FIVE roasting ovens! This gives you a lot more ambient heat into the room when compared to the standard ElectricKit Aga Conversions.

The 5-oven ElectricKit Advanced model is just under 1.5m wide and is supplied with the below as standard:

5-oven setup
Two high-power metal hotplates, under the traditional chrome lids.
Optional Radiant (halogen) or induction hob upgrades (to sit under the traditional lids).
Warming plate for resting dishes or drying laundry.
Optional 'on/off' powered warming plate upgrade, or twin-zone electric hob replacement.
Wi-Fi integration for remotely scheduling or adjusting oven temperatures.
Automatic 'rest' periods for reducing the cooker temperature in-between uses (instead of turning off).

We have a 5-oven model aside for our showroom, which is located in Inverbervie, Scotland. We'd love for you to experience the flexibility and efficiency that comes with it.

Get in touch with us if you'd like to explore the 5-oven ElectricKit Advanced, or have any questions on upgrading (or trading in) your current Aga Cooker.

ElectricKit Aga Conversion

Thu, 16 Apr 2026 18:02:18 GMT

Come with us to convert this 2 Oven Oil Aga Cooker to our controllable "ElectricKit Advanced" System!

First, we start by dismantling the oil aga cooker. This involves removing the top plate, vacuuming out the loose-fill vermiculite, and removing the redundant cast iron parts.

The old oil system uses heavy cast iron barrels and conductions to move the heat around the cooker from the single heat source. Once the Aga Cooker has the ElectricKit Advanced Conversion inside, there are multiple elements to direct the heat where it needs to go - removing the need for those cast iron conductions.

Once dismantled, the Aga Cooker is built back up, with the ElectricKit Advanced Conversion elements placed under and above the ovens. This placement helps temperature regulation and vastly improves heat up times. Traditional oil models will reach temperature from cold in around 7 hours. Models with our ElectricKit Advanced Conversion heat up in around 50 minutes from cold.

The aga ovens are reseated and surrounded with furnace-grade insulation blankets to retain the heat and reduce your running costs.

The new ElectricKit Advanced hotplate units are installed, alongside a modern induction hob if applicable!

These conversion customers opted for an external screen upgrade, where individual oven and hotplate temperature adjustments, automatic on/off scheduling and timer settings can all be controlled by the small panel seated on the worktop next to the Aga Cooker.

If you're interested in our ElectricKit Advanced Conversions, get in touch with our team, or read more about the technical specifications here: https://www.saltirecookers.com/electrickit-advanced

*whilst these conversion systems are not made or endorsed by AGA Rangemaster, they have dominated the market for over 10 years, with thousands of happy aga owners all over the UK (and beyond!).

Aga Door Stuck or Not Closing Properly?

Wed, 25 Mar 2026 09:57:09 GMT

If your Aga Cooker doors have started sticking, or letting steam out of your ovens, they may need a little adjustment.

During the lifetime of traditional aga cookers, the door hinge pins were slightly re-designed. These pins attach to the door and slot into the two hinge brackets on the cooker front plate.

Any cookers made before the year 2000 , had cast iron 'pins' welded into the door.

Any cookers made after the year 2000 , had steel adjustment pins, held in place with grub screws.

You'll find a couple photos below, showing the differences:

Pre-2000 models have limited adjustment, with manual manipulation and bending of the cast iron pin, using a pair of pliers. If you're adjusting these yourself, be really careful as they can snap off with too much movement (and you'll need a whole new door!).

Post-2000 models can be adjusted using the steps below, a slotted screw driver and a 3mm Allen key.

It's also worth checking your door seal and washers - particularly if your oven is letting steam out of the top corners of your doors. They are both classed as 'consumable' parts and can be changed yourself, with some spares and high temperature silicone for the door seal.

Open the door.
If it's stuck in the closed position, your door pin has already moved and you'll need to turn it to change the position of the door.
Try to turn each door pin from underneath, using a slotted screwdriver, until it can be opened. If they're loose, they'll turn. Don't force it too much.
Loosen the door pin.
Using the Allen key, loosen the grub screw holding the pin in place.
Make sure the door pin is rotating in it's socket.
Use the slotted screwdriver to adjust the door position.
Looking from under the hinge, turn the pin and you'll notice the door will start tilting and moving slightly up and down.
When you think you have the correct position, tighten the grub screw to keep it in place.
Test the door, and adjust if needed. This can be very testing on your patience!
You can also commit the door pin position to memory, remove the door (lifting it off the cooker), then adjusting it, tightening it, then repositioning it back.

Alternatively, you can ask your local Aga Engineer to come take a look - they'll know exactly how to quickly adjust the door for you.

Yellow Flame on your Oil Aga?

Sun, 22 Mar 2026 11:41:51 GMT

If your Oil Aga Cooker has a yellow flame, or is sooting up, it needs some intervention.

Firstly, turn your cooker off!

A yellow flame is a sign that something is wrong, and with oil, it's always better to be safer than sorry. Also make sure you have a working carbon monoxide detector by the Aga.

When running correctly, your oil burner should have a lovely blue flame above the burner shells, when you look through the glass viewing window.

In recent years, we've seen considerably more issues with oil-burning Aga Cookers, resulting in more frequent servicing, or issues with the correct burning of oil. Most issues have been with oil quality and blocked filters. We've found that the best thing for your Aga cooker is standard 28-second kerosene (no additives), delivered in as few deliveries per year as possible.

To highlight the temperamental nature of Oil Aga Cookers, some have been running perfectly well for decades with "Certas GlowMax" oil (it used to be recommended by AGA back in the day), but others have immediate issues whenever any additives are introduced.

If you're having issues after a delivery of oil, the new delivery may have stirred up sediment/water in your tank, so you may need a service to clear things out (and your oil tank filter!). You should let your tank run down to around 20% empty before filling up.

If your Oil Aga cooker has a yellow flame, the most likely causes are:

Burner shells not seated into the burner correctly.
Lighting flap on your burner shells incorrectly closed.
Vaporising chamber lid on top of shells not seated correctly.
Center plug not seated correctly (some are sealed with fire cement to prevent any air ingress).
Burner base had become unlevelled.
Wicks reseated incorrectly.

Your burner must be cool before relighting.

You'll need to clear out the soot from the flueways before trying to light, otherwise the downdraught can be impeded and cause similar issues.

As a minimum:

Burner chamber cleared of soot.
Boiling plate taken out and barrel cleared of soot.
Simmer plate taken out and flueways hoovered out.
Flue baffle taken out and flue cleared of soot.

There are a few things to check before relighting:

Check that the burner shells are fully seated correctly inside the burner.
Check the top lid on burner shells seated correctly.
Check centre chamber plug seated correctly (some are sealed with fire cement to prevent air ingress).
Check burner is level after reseating it back into the ashpit.
Check elbow isn’t leaking after reconnecting it to the burner.
Burner is thouroughly cleaned (centre well, flow channels and wick recesses cleared of any carbon or deposits).

We'd always recommend a visit from a qualified aga-trained engineer, rather than a DIY, but hopefully the information above is helpful.

Plinths for Aga Cookers

Sun, 22 Feb 2026 08:45:23 GMT

All of the information, sizes and advice for Aga Cooker Plinths

Our black steel plinths are available to add onto your cooker order if required. They add additional height to the overall Aga dimensions and are available in multiple heights to suit your kitchen design.

Traditionally, these British-made Aga Cookers were 851mm from the base to the top of the black enamelled surface.

When do you need a plinth?

If your worktop or ideal working height is taller than 851mm and you want your Aga Cooker to match them, you'll need a plinth underneath.

Brand new Aga Cookers (as well as our ESSE and Everhot cookers) have a fixed height plinth built into the cooker body. If you need these raised higher, you'll need to lay marine-grade plywood or concrete at the required height before installation.

What sizes of plinths are available?

Our plinths are available in 50mm to 80mm sizes. They also allow for levelling of the base before the assembly of the cooker begins.

How do I choose my plinth size?

When choosing your required height, you should consider your finished floor height vs your worktop height.

It's standard for Aga Cookers to finish slightly proud of the worktop, since the top plate is curved rather than a right-angle ( photo shown below ). If you were to finish level with the worktop, you will have a bigger 'valley' in-between, where crumbs and debris love to collect!

Usually, the plinth is seated onto the subfloor, with finished flooring/tiles ran up to and around the plinth once the cooker is built.

Alternatively, you can either seat the plinth directly onto the finished floor/tiles, as long as they can bare the weight of the cooker, or we can raise the plinth using the adjustment legs, to allow the finished floor to tuck underneath slightly ( photo shown below).

If choosing this option, you should bare in mind the supporting feet in each corner of the plinth start at around 20mm from the front of the plinth. This means your flooring could run underneath for a depth of around 20mm if preferred.

After the cooker is built, there are NO adjustments in height, without a strip down and rebuild.

What do Aga Cooker plinths look like?

Can I build my own plinth?

Although we recommend the purpose-built black plinths, you can choose to build your own if preferred.

They must be made from non-combustible materials for a thickness of at least 12mm (usually concrete). This is the minimum to comply with regulations, but any 12mm plinths would likely crack with the weight of the cooker.

If you're laying a concrete plinth, it must be laid completely level and at least 3 days ahead of the cooker build. This allows enough time for it to completely dry and harden enough to support the cooker weight.

Dimensions for DIY plinths:

2 and 3 oven models

987mm wide x 680mm deep

(if adding an integrated module at the side: 1598mm wide x 680mm deep)

4 and 5 oven models:

1487mm wide x 680mm deep

(if adding an integrated module at the side: 2098mm wide x 680mm deep)

If you're installing tiles, splash-back or up-stands behind your Aga Cooker, remember to increase the depth to suit.

You'll still need at least a 10mm air gap behind the cooker.

Aga Cookers and Asbestos

Fri, 30 Jan 2026 21:21:42 GMT

We've been restoring Aga Cookers for decades and frequenty come across the question "Does My Aga Cooker Contain Asbestos?".

The internal cavities of Aga Cookers have historically been filled with loose-fill insulation. Inside the cooker body, there are lots of pockets and gaps around the cast iron conductions and burner casings etc. The insulation was poured inside after the build was complete, to rid the cooker of air pockets and insulate the cooker body.

Diatomaceous Powder Insulation

Early models of Aga cooker, like the Standard models made from the 1950's through to the Deluxe 1974 models (and some post-1974 models), would have originally contained Kieselguhr insulation power (or 'Diatomaceous Earth'). You can identify your model here.

This is a fine, talc-like insulation, made from crushed up fossils called diatoms. It's satisfying to touch, but VERY messy to work with and instantly becomes thick clay once exposed to water or moisture. The good news is that amorphous diatomaceous earth is non-toxic. As with anything in powder or dust form - minimising exposure is key. You don't want to be breathing in lung-fulls of any dust or powder. If you're working with it, the proper PPE should be used; not just cloth or paper dust masks.

Whilst the loose fill insulation may be ok, these models are still the most at risk for any asbestos exposure. AGA used asbestos rope seals inside their cookers for many years. These seals and gaskets are found inside the body of the older models explained above, and also around the lids and doors. Over the lifetime of these cookers, many of these gaskets and rope seals have been replaced for modern (safe) equivalents.

AGA have previously reassured engineers and customers that undisturbed, these seals pose little risk and were of 'dust suppressed' or 'tightly woven' formats. Many of them have been exposed to moisture or grease over time which hardens them, meaning they're less friable in nature. They recommend that really old models of cooker are removed in one piece if possible and disposed of professionally.

Vermiculite Insulation

"Newer" Aga Cookers from 1974 onwards would have contained Vermiculite. This is now commonplace for any refurbished oil, gas, or 13amp Aga cookers. Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral which is mined, thinly sliced, then heated until it 'pops' like popcorn, to produce chips of insulation. There is no asbestos inside vermiculite - they're two different minerals.

There is some talk online about the vermiculite mine in Libby, Montana. This vermiculite was popularly sold as 'Zonolite' for home attic insulation, and primarily used across the united states. In the 1960's, asbestos contamination was found in the mined vermiculite. At this time, AGAs were mainly using the Kieselguhr powder mentioned above, then switched to vermiculite likely sometime after 1980's.

Most of the vermiculite used in the UK comes from China and South Africa, and we have strict testing and regulations. Although the chance is never nil, it's less likely that your Aga Cooker contains asbestos inside the loose-fill insulation.

Whenever you're working with an older model of Aga Cooker, please take precautions and wear correct PPE for the job. If you're looking to purchase an older refurbished model, find an established, trusted, professional company. You never know if your engineers are re-using older insulation, cutting corners to save on cost, or just ill-informed about the risks and material they're working with.

How to light your Gas Aga Cooker

Tue, 27 Jan 2026 17:36:25 GMT

Looking for Lighting Instructions for Gas Aga Cookers? Just follow the steps below.

At Saltire Cookers, we refurbish traditional models of Aga cookers, including gas, as well as oil and our popular electric models .

We also offer Electric Conversions for cheaper running costs, and refurbishments for existing cookers - we're busy boys!

If you need to light your Gas Aga cooker, we've got some easy-to-follow instructions here.

Nowadays, Gas Aga Cookers are usually running from two types of gas valve - Maxitrol or Eurosit.

Some use older Mark 1 or 'Junkers' burners, which are discontinued with no spares available.

How to Light Maxitrol Gas Valves

If your flame has recently extinguished, wait at least 3 minutes before attempting to relight.

1. Identify your burner control dials - Temperature control is the top left black dial, and the Main Control is the top right black dial.

2. Turn the temperature control dial down to the minimum setting (either number 1 or the small end of the scale - depending on age/type of Maxitrol valve).

3. Turn the Control dial to its OFF position (the 3 o'clock position as you're looking at it).

4. Make sure the main Gas Stop Tap is turned to its ON position.

5. Turn the Control dial anti-clockwise, to the star/spark symbol.

6. Depress the whole Control dial and keep it down for at least 5 seconds - to allow gas to enter the flow pipes. Keep it pressed down for the next step.

7. Keeping the Control dial pressed down, turn it anticlockwise to the next position (the small flame symbol), to activate the piezo. Keep it pressed down for the next step.

8. With the small pilot lit, keep the Control dial depressed for a further 10 seconds for the flame to establish and heat the thermocouple. If it extinguishes, try the process again.

9. Turn the Control dial anti-clockwise to the large flame.

10. Now turn the Temperature control dial to the low fire position (either 1-2 on numbered dials, or very slightly into the white zone, on dials with a scale). You should see a small flame appear through the glass inspection window into the burner.

Leave this small low-fire flame for at least an hour, for all your flue ways to heat up enough for up draught.

After an hour, turn the Temperature control dial to the normal operating position (either between 5-7 for numbered dials, or middle of the green band for dials with a scale).

After a further 8hrs, your cooker should be at temperature. Any adjustments to the temperature dial position should be made sparingly, and your cooker left overnight for the heat to settle before any further readings taken from the heat indicator/thermometer on the cooker front plate.

How to Light Eurosit Gas Valves

If your flame has recently extinguished, wait at least 3 minutes before attempting to relight.

1. Turn the cooker to its OFF position (solid black dot on the dial) and make sure the Gas Stop Tap is turned on (photo above).

2. Turn the dial anticlockwise to the star/spark symbol.

3. Press the dial down with one hand. Using the other hand, after a few second, repeatedly press the ignitor button (to the left) until a small pilot light is established, visible through the viewing window into the burner.

4. Keep the dial depressed for a further 30 seconds once the pilot light is established. If it goes out, wait at least 3 minutes before relighting.

5. After 30 seconds, slowly release the dial, then turn to the low fire setting (the small white box on dials with the scales, or for numbered dials, the start of the numbers). You'll see the main burner bar ignite, through the small glass viewing window.

Leave the burner in low fire for at least an hour, for all your flue ways to heat up enough for up draught.

After an hour, turn the dial to the normal operating position (either between 5-7 for numbered dials, or the green band for dials with a scale).

Levelling the ElectricKit Hotplates

Tue, 27 Jan 2026 15:36:31 GMT

Over time, the older style of ElectricKit Hotplate can become uneven with use of heavy pans or movement. Here's how to fix it yourself (and save a call out fee!).

If your ElectricKit Hotplate has become uneven, before trying the steps below, try to SPIN the expansion ring around the hotplate to see if the levels improve. If not, continue with the adjustments.

This guide is for the older ElectricKit Original and the ElectricKit Classic systems - the newer ElectricKit Advanced has a smaller chrome expansion ring and isn't adjustable in the same way.

STEP 1:

Isolate the power to your hotplates or cooker - there are live connections inside, so a risk of electrocution if the power isn't off.

You should switch the cooker off from the mains fuse switch, or from the fuse board.

STEP 2:

Lift the expansion ring off and set aside.

- Use an oven glove if it's HOT!

You'll then see the 4 adjustment screws around the perimeter.

Don't worry if your hotplate has less insulation inside than the photo shown - we're using an older style hotplate for the demo.

STEP 3:

Using an Allen Key, turn the required adjustment screw clockwise to raise, anti-clockwise to lower.

Once your level is reached, gentle push down on each opposite side to make sure the hotplate doesn't 'rock' side to side.

Reseat the expansion ring.

If it's still not level, you may need to spin the expansion ring around slightly to get it seated correctly - if needed, remove and adjust the hotplate again until level.

Esse not heating up?

Sat, 17 Jan 2026 08:40:24 GMT

If your Esse Cooker has stopped heating up, or displays lots of red lights, here's the solution.

If your ESSE Range Cooker isn't heating up, there are a few simple checks to carry out first:

1. Is the cooker switched on at the plug(s)?

If your plug sockets are located inside cabinets or at the back of a drawer unit, it's worth checking that they haven't been knocked into the OFF position with pans or appliances etc.

2. Is your ESSE on at the fuse board?

If your supply to the cooker plugs has tripped, they won't be supplying power to the sockets. Check that the circuit is switched on at your home fuse board. If it has tripped (turned itself off), you'll need to check WHY it tripped in the first place. Turn all your dials to 0 and switch it back on. Turn each one on/off to find any problematic 'zones' of the cooker, causing the fuse board to trip.

3. Do you have all solid red lights on your ESSE control panel?

This indicates a power failure. If you've had a power cut (even a short one), your ESSE might need a quick reset to knock it back into life. If all the dials have red lights on, turn them all to 0, and your main top oven past the little min button (you'll need to depress it, then turn the dial anti-clockwise, so that it's lower than MIN). One they're all off, turn them back on and you should start to feel heat after a few minutes.

4. Did you turn all areas of your cooker on at the same time?

The ESSE has power-share technology which gives each area the full 3kW of power (the max for a UK plug). This is great for faster heat up times when using an area of the cooker, but if more elements are calling for power, it cooker will 'cycle' through the areas. This lower power consumption also means slower heat up times when everything is turned on at one (since there's a limited amount of electric it can draw at any one time). From cold, your hotplates will heat in around 30 minutes, and your ovens in around an hour.

If you're still having issues after trying the above, reach out to the ESSE Technical Team:

01282 813235

enquiries@esse.com

ElectricKit Timer Advice

Sun, 28 Dec 2025 12:42:39 GMT

To be able to enjoy the full programmability and flexibility of the Advanced system you must have strong reliable WIFI in the part of the home where the Aga will be installed/is built. This allows seamless control with the mobile app and timer.

Our ElectricKit Advanced conversions can be programmed using the Smart Life App , which is a third party App.

You don't HAVE to use the app, your system can operate perfectly fine without connecting to WiFi or your mobile - it's just handy for remotely controlling the ovens or scheduling on/off times.

If your WiFi signal is weak in the area of the cooker, we recommend looking into WiFi boosters, or talking to your internet provider. Most WiFi boosters only need a plug socket and can vastly improve signal in larger homes or those with thick walls!

*we can't provide support for your home wifi system, or problems due to weak internal signal, but we'll try our best.

Your initial setup of your app can be done on the day of installation, but your app should be downloaded and your account setup beforehand.

There are instructions included in the manufacturer's user guide (which you can find on our page here ).

Our top tips for using the ElectricKit WiFi Connectivity:

Make sure you have strong and reliable WiFi connection by the cooker.
Use the app to setup your on/off times if needed (it's much easier than using the control panel!).
If you're turning the cooker on/off more than 3 times a day, it is easier to leave it on constantly. From our own tests, the energy spent heating up from cold a few times a day vs the energy spent maintaining a constant temperature is negligible.
Utilise your rest temperatures for your ovens. Instead of turning your cooker off in the evening, try using the 'rest' temperatures to put your cooker into a 'slumber' rather than go cold. This will keep some heat inside the thick cast iron ovens, emanate a little heat into the room and reduce your heat up times. You can choose your rest temperatures but something like 100c would be enough.
If you have the same mealtimes each day, use your scheduling to bring the ovens up to temperature at least half an hour before you're ready to cook. The extra time will give the ovens time to stabilise in temperature and radiate heat from all sides for the best cooking performance.
Communicate any adjustments! If you're away from home and you change the oven temperature, tell anyone who is at home. They may try to cook but the oven temperature has changed. Your system will revert to whatever the last instruction was, whether that is through the app or the manual control panel.

ElectricKit Hotplate Not Working?

Sun, 28 Dec 2025 12:18:14 GMT

If one or both of your 'ElectricKit Conversion' hotplates stop working, we'll help you troubleshoot and find solutions.

First steps would be to identify your conversion system.

We'll show you some photographs below of the different models over the years, and you can identify yours by matching the control panel to your own.

Remember to limit your hotplate temperature when the lids are closed - leaving them at full temperature can damage the components and require out-of-warranty repairs.

ElectricKit Original (Silver Panel) ⬆️

ElectricKit Classic (Black Panel) ⬆️

ElectricKit Advanced (Touchscreen) ⬆️

The hotplates are a 'drop in' cassette design, and have overheat switches on the side of them. If this reaches a certain temperature, it will activate and turn off the hotplate. Once cooled, the overheat switch would need to be reset before the hotplate can switch on again.

If both of your hotplates have stopped working, check the power to the cooker.

Original (and some Classic) models may have one power supply/plug to the hotplates and one for the ovens. In the past, we've seen some switches accidentally knocked off by pots/pans etc inside the cupboard next to switches.

If one of your hotplates is not switching on, try the overheat reset below.

This guide is for the original and classic versions, but the advanced is similar, the only notable difference is the lack of the cast iron expansion ring to remove beforehand!

It may be obvious, but we have to mention that we can't be responsible for any damage you cause to the cooker whilst carrying out the overheat reset below . If you'd prefer, get in touch and we might be able to quote you for an engineer visit.

STEP 1: ISOLATE POWER TO THE COOKER

You'll be working with LIVE connections, so it's important that you turn off the power!

Turn off the power supply (or both fused spurs) that supply the cooker at the wall. If you do not have switches, go to your fuse board and turn off the power supply to the electric ring main that supplies the cooker. Confirm there is no power to the Aga range cooker by observing that there are no lights illuminated on the control panel, or testing with an electric tester.

STEP 2: REMOVE THE EXPANSION RING (if applicable)

The cast iron versions just lift off, as shown below. If you have a chrome version, it will lift out with the whole hotplate when we move onto step 3. Place a thick towel or cardboard etc right next to the hotplate, to prevent any scratches or damage to your enamel top!.

STEP 3: LIFT THE WHOLE HOTPLATE OUT OF THE TOP PLATE RECESS.

You might need a small flat-headed screwdriver to levy under the rim and get a good purchase on it. Be careful not to yank the hotplate out too far, which might dislodge any wires.

STEP 4: IDENTIFY THE OVERHEAT SWITCH AND RESET.

The small white circular switch with two LIVE red wires connected is the overheat. You'll need to push the white button in the middle which should 'click' when reset. Make sure the wires are secure, then carefully reseat the hotplate, with the cables at a 7 o'clock position (using your open lid as the 12 o'clock position).

STEP 5: RESTORE POWER AND TEST.

Once the hotplate is back into position, turn on the power to the cooker and try heating up the hotplate again.

If it's now working, you can use it as normal - just remember to limit the max temperature when the lids are closed. We recommend simmering temperatures.

If it's still not working, give us a call and we'll help!

eControl Hotplate Not Working?

Mon, 22 Dec 2025 12:08:01 GMT

If one or both of your 'eControl Conversion' hotplates stop working, we'll help you troubleshoot and find possible solutions.

First steps would be to identify your conversion system.

We'll show you some photographs below of the different models over the years, and you can identify yours by matching the control panel to your own.

Initial Troubleshooting:

If your Aga Cooker tripped the fuse board when the hotplate stopped working, you’d likely need an element repair by an approved engineer (or you can upgrade to the 'drop in' style design - explained below).
If your cooker didn’t trip the electric supply, you can try the manual hotplate reset process below.

Remember to limit your hotplate usage and never keep them on manual model when the lids are closed.

We recommend turning them off and using them as and when required, to prevent any future repairs.

eControl Series 1 ⬆️

eControl Series 2 ⬆️

eControl Series X ⬆️

eControl Series x2 ⬆️

Series 1, 2 and early editions of the Series X system had 'version 1' hotplates. These were assembled onsite during the cooker build, and consisted of the hotplate element and a steel plate on top. This design also used a specific type of overheat thermostats inside. These stats will trip if the hotplates overheat and will require manual resetting from inside the control panel before the hotplate will heat again.

In later Series X and Series x2 systems , the hotplates were changed to a much more robust design, which had the element slightly embedded inside the metal/cast iron plates. This upgrade meant the heat transfer was better, and provided more resilience to user error (forgetting to turn them off after use or when the lids are closed). They also had a different type of overheat thermostat, which engages and resets automatically when the heat reduces.

Steel 'version 1' hotplates ⬆️

These would patina with some permanent blue/purple patches once heated up.

Steel 'drop in' hotplates ⬆️

These had a thin metal 'expansion ring' around the outside.

Cast iron 'drop in' hotplates ⬆️

These are slightly larger, one-piece cast iron plates with no expansion ring.

eControl Hotplate Overheat Reset

STEP 1: ISOLATE THE POWER

Turn your cooker off from the isolation switch and (even better) at the fuse board. The high electrical load can be lethal so you want to double check that there is no power going to the cooker before you start.

STEP 2: REMOVE THE DIALS

If you have the early Series 1 models (two dials on the control screen), you can pull these large dials away from the screen to dislodge them.

For Series 2 and X models, turn the small dials until you see the small socket set screw on the side, that holds them into place. Loosen these using an Allen key and pull to remove.

STEP 3: REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL

The 4 chrome screw caps in each corner should be finger tight. These will spin off and expose the screw underneath. Carefully remove these 4 screws then place the glass screen off to the side.

STEP 4: IDENTIFY AND RESET THE OVERHEAT STAT

As you look at the controls, you’ll see the overheat stats down the left-hand side.

They are identified by small red plastic pins poking out of the metal housing.

On Series 2 and X models, you may need to unscrew the display screens, and gently move them out of the way to expose the overheat thermostats on the left.

The below diagram is for the older Series 1 models, but the Series 2 and X will be similar.

Push the red buttons (very firmly ). If they have been activated, you’ll hear a satisfying ‘click’ once they’re reset.

Once reset, we recommend limiting your hotplates and turning them on/off whenever needed.

If you need a hotplate element replacement, or would like us to upgrade your hotplates to the newer design, just get in touch with us and we'll assist.

What Are The Esse PRO Cookers?

Tue, 18 Nov 2025 17:50:20 GMT

Esse's new launch day featured the brilliant PRO series.

The Esse Pro models build on the standard models but offer 40% more oven capacity.

The size of the two lower ovens have been increased to give you a huge 127L capacity across all three ovens (and more aesthetically pleasing symmetry!).

The standard models (600, 1000 or 1600) are available as a PRO model, boasting the larger oven capacity. The ovens have the same patented wrap around oven elements for perfect cooking, and consumption/heat up times.

As with the standard models, the controllable ovens have their own adjustable vents to allow independent control of the moisture inside the ovens. Need more moisture for baking lovely moist cakes? Just close over the oven vent. Need to crisp up some tatties for the Sunday roast? Just slide the vent open to allow steam and moisture to escape.

You'll see a comparison between the standard model (a 1000T chosen for the example!) and the new PRO option below:

You'll see the black 'kick strip' at the bottom of the cooker has changed too. The coloured kick strip is optional on the Pro Series - choose to integrate the colour down to the floor, or keep the plinth black - similar to the traditional range cookers.

With the Pro series, you get the same Esse experience:

⭐️ 2 Year parts & labour warranty.

�� Ambient heat when you need it.

⚡️ Fully electric with induction hobs.

⏳ Fast heat up times, as quick as 10 minutes.

�� Slumber setting for lower running costs.

Check out our Esse page for more information and prices .

Aga Hot Water Boilers

Fri, 31 Oct 2025 20:40:25 GMT

Looking to heat your hot water with your Aga Cooker? Keep reading!

Aga Cookers were originally designed to heat the ovens and hotplates constantly - kicking out lots of heat into the room.

Eventually, the idea of using this 'always on' heat, to heat water too!

Internal 'AGA' Hot Water Boilers were first installed inside the older 'Standard' or 'Trad' models (photo below).

This simple boiler system was essentially a small copper or cast iron unit, which hugged the main cast iron burner barrel, to use the conductive heat. The water would be gravity-fed, and work its way back to a larger cylinder elsewhere in the house. The system doesn't have a thermostat to regulate the water temperature, and although installing a heat-sink radiator would help, the tap water could still be scorching hot if the water wasn't used quick enough!

Things to consider with Aga Hot Water Boilers:

AGA Rangemaster discontinued the boiler option in 2014, with modern central heating boilers doing a much better (and more efficient) job of providing domestic hot water.

Internal boilers add roughly 30-40% to the normal running costs of an Aga Cooker.

Some owners wrongly assume that the hot water inside their Aga cooker boiler is free, since the cooker is already hot. In reality, the cold water entering the cooker absorbs heat and takes it away from the internal cast iron, meaning the burner needs to work harder to restore it. Modern central heating boilers should always be the first consideration for your domestic hot water.. On average, the Aga could heat a 45 gallon cylinder twice in 24hrs. Household boilers are specifically designed for that purpose.

There is no controllability over the hot water supply.

The thermostats in traditional Aga cookers are located in the top oven. This means that the thermostat doesn't know what the boiler is doing, or is able to regulate the temperature of the water. We've had conversion customers say that their previous models used to make steam come out of the taps! Nowadays, your plumber should fit a 'blending valve' onto the cylinder or at the taps to limit water temp for current regulations. A relief valve should also be fitted to prevent pressure or excessive temperatures building up inside the cylinder.

Aga cookers were never designed to heat hot water (or heat the room!) - that's just a byproduct of their 'always on' operation. On average, the internal boilers can heat a 45 gallon cylinder twice in 24hrs. If you run out, there's no 'boost' option - you just have to wait for the cooker to catchup with demand. If you need to turn your aga cooker off in the warmer months, you'll have no hot water.

Aga Cookers cannot run radiators, only domestic hot water systems.

We've heard people looking to heat their whole home from an Aga cooker boiler, but unfortunately it's not possible. The boilers are small and don't heat sufficiently to provide hot water for radiator systems. You'd be able to run your hot tap water, and store excess inside the larger cylinder, but the maximum output would be a 135 gallon boiler (which are hard to find nowadays). The norm is a 90 gallon boiler for 2 oven models, and a smaller version for 4 oven models. The most output you would hope for would be a heat sink radiator, but you'd likely need to consider a Rayburn model instead. These have much bigger boilers inside and dedicated design for heating a radiator system.

Electric models cannot work with internal hot water boilers.

The newer controllable models of Aga Cookers tend not to have the older design of a cast iron barrel around the burner (aka, the thing that heated boilers in the past). Other electric models just aren't suitable to have a tank of water hidden inside the cooker, where leaks can go unnoticed for quite a while!

Leaks are a possibility.

There are a few versions of boilers used in the past. Original cast iron boilers for 2-oven models, are made from two pieces. The internal surface was coated in vitreous enamel, then sandwiched together with a gasket in between. These are notorious for failing over time and can cause quite a bit of internal rusting to the other cast iron components. Newer boilers were either copper, or welded steel and proved to be much more resilient. Leaks are always going to be a risk with an internal boiler, due to the connections inside the cooker body and/or the seals around the boiler. Usually, leaks aren't evident until you see puddles of water under the cooker! By that time, it's already saturated the internal insulation and requires a partial strip down to replace.

Aga cooker boilers don't last forever.

The most common reason Aga boilers fail, is due to buildup inside the pipes from the water running through them. Overtime, this slows the water flow and can cause issues, leaks or blockages. Swapping the actual boiler is a straight-forward job, but it also involves partly dismantling the cooker, removing all of the sodden insulation and renewing it.

Removing your existing Aga Cooker Boiler?

If you're decommissioning your internal hot water boiler, it MUST be removed from inside the cooker. The void will be filled in with extra loose-fill insulation (vermiculite) and the holes in the side blanked off.

DO NOT JUST BLANK OFF THE PIPES EXITING THE COOKER! This would create a pressure bomb-like unit inside the cooker. Backfilling it with sand shouldn't be an option either - you'll need an engineer to take the top off your aga cooker and remove the boiler unit from inside.

If you were to cut the boiler pipes and leave them in situ, the hot air would exit the cooker through the old boiler pipes, creating a fire risk. It'll also eventually rust through the side panel through.

Prepping your water system for an Aga Cooker Boiler:

Internal hot water boilers should only be connected to indirect water systems.
The system should be open-vented and not pressurised.
Temperature relief and thermostatic mixing valves should be fitted, to safely limit the temperature of the water.

Any pipe work in the water system should be insulated to protect surrounding and reduce the risk of freezing or heat loss. They should avoid horizontal runs but if unavoidable, they should rise upwards in the direction from the boiler. The 28mm copper flow and return pipes from the cooker should rise continuously from the cooker to the water cylinder, and have a limit of 5.5m. They should be insulated.

In Summary:

Overall, we'd usually strongly advise against hot water boilers inside Aga cookers. Although, in some situations, it's just necessary. For those, we recommend taking note of the potential issues above, and choosing a steel welded boiler with the safety valves and regulations adhered to. Make sure your service engineer checks the boiler for leaks or internal moisture during your routine service, to catch any issues before they escalate.

Please consider running your hot water from your central heating boiler. It'll be much more efficient, safer, cheaper to run and actually controllable!

eControl Pre-Install Guide

Mon, 13 Oct 2025 17:21:10 GMT

This guide is made specifically for our own customers. Other conversion systems will have different requirements.

With the controllable eControl system, there are some pre-installation requirements that need to be completed before we arrive.

Please make sure these are all completed and in place before we arrive. If not, and we can't safely complete the conversion/install, we may need to charge for a 'failed install' and reschedule to the next available date in our diary (usually +3 months).

1. Fuel Disconnection

If you're converting an existing Aga Cooker, your oil or gas line will need to be cut and blanked off before we arrive.

If you have a hot water boiler inside the Aga Cooker, the two 28mm flow pipes coming out of the cooker (usually out of the side panel), will also need to be cut and blanked off at the same time as the oil/gas line.

Do not run the cooker whilst the boiler pipes are disconnected.

This completely isolates the cooker from the system, so that it's ready for dismantling.

2. Electric Requirements

There are no internal fuses inside the conversion systems

For eControl Installations:

2 Oven Sx: 6kW

2 Oven Sx2: 7.75kW

1 x 32amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

with Instaheat: 40amp supply

3 Oven Sx: 7.5kW

3 Oven Sx2: 9.25kW

1 x 40amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

with Instaheat upgrade : 40amp supply

4 Oven Sx: 6.75kW

4 Oven Sx2: 8.25kW

1 x 32amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

with Instaheat upgrade: 40amp supply

Twin-Zone InstaHeat Hob (to replace warming plate on 4-oven models)

An additional 13amp plug socket, next to the Aga Cooker.

The Aga Cooker will be cabled up using 6mm (or 10mm) x 3 Core H07RN-F cable.

3. Electric Positioning

Once your electrics are installed, we'll need a photo showing the position relative to the Aga Cooker (or proposed Aga cooker position).

We'll add these to your job file to make sure they're all correct, and we bring plenty length of cable for your install.

The electric system needs a dedicated supply.
Electrics must be installed prior to the conversion (no bare wires please!).
They can be to either the left or right of the cooker.
The connection point should be low-level, below worktop height.
Electrical work must be carried out to specification by a qualified electrician.
The power cable is 6mm (or 10mm) x 3 Core H07RN-F.
The connection point/switch must allow complete electrical isolation of the cooker by a multi-pole switch.
The connection point/switch must have a contact separation of at least 3mm on all poles.
We recommend fitting an RCD to the cooker circuit.
We can’t support or install any third-party timers purchased.
Our conversion engineers don’t have the tools to trace cables through walls or inside cavities.

4. Site Preperations

We'll need a note of any access issues before we arrive (narrow passages, stairs, steps or parking restrictions etc).

If you're converting an existing Aga Cooker, we'll bring our industrial hoover. We usually place this outside and snake the 10m hose through the kitchen window to help keep dust down. Please let us know in advance if this won't be possible.

We'll bring floor coverings with us, but there will still be dust, so it's best to tuck away any food or appliances etc.

Dimensions of 2 and 3 oven aga cookers:

Dimensions of 4 oven aga cookers:

5. Life After Installation

Your cooker has been ‘reborn’!

After installation, we'll give you a thorough run down of the system, how it works and some tips with an opportunity to ask any questions you have. We'll then send you an email summarising the 'quick start' points and a copy of your user guide for future reference.

Your cooker has the same cast iron ovens as the traditional models, but you have much more control. The benefit of the eControl is the placement of the elements, with the most powerful ones above and below your top oven. This has great temperature regulation, but it also means the floor of your ovens will be hotter than oil/gas models. Simply place a grid shelf on the floor to lift the food off the base and cook and normal. To grill or crisp dishes, remove the perforated baffle plate and raise your dish close to the roof of the top oven (like a traditional aga cooker).

Some traditional models run hotter than normal. In these cases, you might find the temperature ranges of the new electric system hotter (or cooler) than other Aga Cookers that you've used in the past. The difference is that you can adjust the hotplate/oven temperatures much more easily than traditional models! Your hotplates can both reach approximately 360c and your roasting oven maximum is 265c - so you shouldn’t have a problem with it being too cool, but it’s worth mentioning.

The hotplates can’t be left on full heat when the lids are closed. On "Series X" systems, the hotplates should be kept on ECO mode (or turned off) when the lids are closed. The Series x2 system automatically reduces the temperature if you forget to turn them down, although we recommend using them as and when needed, since they heat up very quickly.

The ambient warmth to the room will be reduced compared to traditional 'always on' models. We estimate you will feel at least 40% less heat, but this is due to the ceramic fibre insulating blanket around the ovens etc. The insulation used with the conversion is amazing quality and great for efficiency. Unfortunately, in order to become an efficient, flexible Aga cooker, some reduction in lost heat is to be expected.

There may be some smoke and smells during the ‘burn off’ period. After the conversion is complete, we'll set it to the required Burn Off settings. Once the Aga Cooker is turned on for the first time, the oil on the hotplates will burn off, sealants will cure, and some starch lagging in the insulation blanket will ‘sweat’. This can emit a strong smell and some smoke, but will dissipate after a few hours/overnight. You should also wipe away any condensation drips that form on the front plate asap. Leaving these to dry or sit on the enamel can permanently stain it.

Once the burn off has completed, you can cook to your hearts content. We recommend waiting until smoke and smells stop before using your Aga cooker. We don’t want those sealant smells permeating the food. This can be a few hours after initial firing but in some cases, overnight.

There may be little pieces of vermiculite left after we leave. Especially if it's raining outside. Vermiculite is expanded mineral and can be 'squashed' into the floor if it gets wet. It can be removed with a stiff brush or a mop.

If you've found our information and service helpful (even if you haven't booked in for a conversion with us!), please leave us a review - just click on the TrustPilot Logo.

5-star reviews help us more than you know, and it makes sharing all of this information worth it!

If you ever need anything from us after our installation, just get in touch - we're happy to help.

If you're looking for any recipes or cooking advice from other users, there's a dedicated Facebook Group called 'ElectricKit Agas'.

Aga Cooker Running Costs

Thu, 11 Sep 2025 20:46:24 GMT

How Much Does it Cost to Run an Aga Cooker?

We offer a wide range of Refurbished Aga Cookers , from the traditional 'always on' oil models, to the flexible electric conversion systems . Each come with their own features, characteristics and energy consumption.

With the energy price hikes, it's important to consider which model suits your lifestyle and budget best.

Let's take a look at the running costs of Aga Cookers, using a standard UK energy tariff.

How Much Does an Aga Cost to Run?

Traditional Oil, Gas and 13amp Aga Cookers are designed to be always on and ready to use.

Back when energy prices were lower (and more stable!), these were very popular for throwing lots of ambient heat into the room and the convenience of cooking whenever needed with an 'always hot' oven/hotplate.

As times progress, more people prefer flexibility and the option to control their running costs by turning parts of the Aga Cooker on/off or up/down whenever needed. This is why our ElectricKit Conversions are so popular, alongside the induction hob upgrades.

It's hard to measure the different models like-for-like, as they all have different purposes. The traditional models will always be on, whereas the ElectricKit Conversions are designed to be used flexibly. All of our Refurbished Aga Cookers have British-Made, cast iron ovens which work best when saturated with heat.

Weekly Aga Running Costs:

Oil, Gas and 13amp are measured running 24/7, as recommended.

ElectricKit and eControl conversions are designed to be used flexibly for cheaper running costs vs traditional models.

Based on the average electricity tariff of 27.69p/kWh and Nat Gas at 5.93p/kWh (Jan 2026) [ Source ]

LPG priced at 0.90p/litre (Jan 2026) [ Source ]

Kerosene priced at 69.56p per litre (Jan 2026) [ Source ]

Economy 7 tariff based on 14.75p/kWh overnight (Jan 2026) [ Source ]

For efficient running costs and traditional ambient heat, take a look at our other Range Cooker options:

Everhot Cookers or Esse Cookers .

With the ElectricKit and eControl, you would tend to use these flexibly when looking to reduce your running costs, but you also have the option of leaving the hotplates and/or ovens on 24/7 for more ambient heat into the room in the cooler months.

ElectricKit Pre-Install Guide

Mon, 26 May 2025 17:01:51 GMT

This guide is made specifically for our own customers. Other conversion systems will have different requirements.

Whether you have the most up-to-date ElectricKit Advanced Conversion , or the manual ElectricKit Classic Conversion , there's some pre-installation requirements that need to be completed before we arrive.

1. Fuel Disconnection

If you're converting an existing Aga Cooker, your oil or gas line will need to be cut and blanked off before we arrive.

Do not run the cooker whilst the boiler pipes are disconnected.

This completely isolates the cooker from the system, so that it's ready for dismantling.

2. Electric Requirements

Depending on your chosen system, you have different electrical requirements:

There are no internal fuses inside the conversion systems

For ElectricKit Classic Installs:

2 Oven Classic: 6kw

2 x single fused spur switches (must be hard-wired. No sockets/plugs)

1 x 32amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

3 Oven Classic: 6.6kw

1 x 32amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

4 Oven Classic: 6.55kw

1 x 32amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

For ElectricKit Advanced Installs:

2 Oven Advanced: 6.6kW

1 x 32amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

3 Oven Advanced: 8.2kW

1 x 40amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

4 Oven Advanced: 7.2kW

1 x 32amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

4 Oven Advanced (high-temp hot-cupboard): 8.5kW

1 x 40amp supply, with connection point and isolation switch.

The Aga Cooker will be cabled up using 6mm or 10mm x 3 Core H07RN-F cable.

3. Electric Positioning

Once your electrics are installed, we'll need a photo showing the position relative to the Aga Cooker (or proposed Aga cooker position).

We'll add these to your job file to make sure they're all correct, and we bring plenty length of cable for your install.

Pre-Installation Electrical Requirements:

The electric system needs a dedicated supply from your fuse board.
Electrics must be installed prior to the conversion (no bare wires please!).
They can be to either the left or right of the cooker.
The connection point should be low-level, below worktop height.
Electrical work must be carried out to specification by a qualified electrician.
The power cable is 6mm (or 10mm) x 3 Core H07RN-F (internal diameters).
The connection point/switch must allow complete electrical isolation of the cooker by a multi-pole switch.
The connection point/switch must have a contact separation of at least 3mm on all poles.
We recommend fitting an RCD to the cooker circuit.
We can’t support or install any third-party timers purchased.
Our conversion engineers don’t have the tools to trace cables through walls or inside cavities.

4. Site Preperations

We'll need a note of any access issues before we arrive (narrow passages, stairs, steps or parking restrictions etc).

We'll bring floor coverings with us, but there will still be dust, so it's best to tuck away any food or appliances etc.

Dimensions of 2 and 3 oven aga cookers:

3-Oven ElectricKit Advanced models have an additional 30mm depth due to the vents at the back of the cooker.

Dimensions of 4 oven aga cookers:

5. Life After Installation

Your cooker has been ‘reborn’!

Your cooker has the same cast iron ovens as the traditional models, but the placement of the electric elements may mean there's a bit of a learning curves ahead. For example, the floor of the roasting oven will be much hotter, and grilling is best done at the top of the bottom oven (closest to the big oven element between the ovens).

The hotplates can’t be left on full heat when the lids are closed. On "Classic" systems, the hotplates should be kept at simmering temperature (number 4) or lower when the lids are closed. The thermostats can become stressed when the heat builds up when the lids are closed and fail, leading to an out-of-warranty visit. On "Advanced" kits, the hotplates will automatically reduce down to boiling temperatures if they are accidentally left higher for longer than 3hrs. We recommend keeping these at simmering temperatures to reduce the risks of scorching or overheating. From simmering, the hotplates should heat up to boiling in around 5 minutes (you can close the lids when pre-heating or cooling down after cooking).

If you've found our information and service helpful (even if you haven't booked in for a conversion with us!), please leave us a review - just click on the TrustPilot Logo.

5-star reviews help us more than you know, and it makes sharing all of this information worth it!

If you ever need anything from us after our installation, just get in touch - we're happy to help.

If you're looking for any recipes or cooking advice from other users, there's a dedicated Facebook Group called 'ElectricKit Agas'.

Connect your Aga Cooker to the ElectricKit App

Sun, 25 May 2025 14:33:39 GMT

With your ElectricKit Advanced Conversion , you can control your Aga Cooker from your phone, using their official mobile app.

If your App isn't connecting to your Aga Cooker, make sure you're using the correct app, then turn the aga cooker off at the wall, then power back on.

The ElectricKit System can be controlled using the Smart Life App - available for android and apple devices. You can use the QR codes below to download, or search your app store for "Smart Life APP"

Once you've setup an account and allowed access to bluetooth, turn your Aga Cooker OFF by the wall switch. Wait a few seconds, then power it back on, which will automatically allow your Aga cooker (labelled "oven") to become discoverable to your phone.

Once added, you'll be taken to the main screen, which will show a graphic of your setup.

From here, you can see your current oven temperatures, and control them on/off.

If you have any cook timers running, it'll also display how much time is left.

You can tap on the Top Oven, Bottom Oven or Left Hand Ovens (available on 4 oven Aga Cookers), to turn them on/off remotely.

If you want to adjust the temperatures of these ovens, tap on the red 'Oven Controls' button at the bottom of the screen.

You can set your 24/7 timer schedule by tapping on the settings cog wheel icon at the bottom right hand corner of the screen.

You can also set a cook timer by tapping on the stopwatch icon at the bottom left of the screen.

From this screen, you can:

Turn ovens on/off.
Turn the "rest" mode on/off.
Adjust the oven target temperature.
Turn the oven vent fan (if installed) on/off.
Turn on your automatic 24/7 schedule.

To adjust the temperatures, tap on the red temperature text, then input a new temperature and tap on the tick to save.

You'll see a note of the 'maximum' temperatures possible for each oven.

Remember, your bottom Right Hand oven will always be around 30% cooler than whatever your top oven is set to (due to the large oven element under the Top Oven).

If your phone isn't responding to your finger taps, make sure your hands are clean, dry and tap the screen slowly.

The ElectricKit External Screen

Sun, 25 May 2025 14:02:10 GMT

With your ElectricKit Advanced Conversion, you can choose an external screen setup. The standard touchscreen behind the Aga Cooker control door is blanked off, and instead, there's a smaller touchscreen that can be mounted on the wall or sat on the worktop next to the cooker.

Wall mounting the screen isn't part of the Saltire Cookers conversion process, so there's some pre-install requirements that need to be put in place before we arrive.

The easiest setup is to put your external screen on the worktop next to your Aga cooker, using one of our small clear plastic stands, or the official white ElectricKit screen stand which is available to order alongside your conversion kit or Refurbished Aga Cooker.

The screen is supplied with a hard-wired 4m long cable, which will be connected to the control panel inside the cooker once your conversion is finished.

This photo shows the small clear stand we can supply.

If you're going to wall mount your control panel, you'll need to install a single gang back box (or 'pattress' box) for the screen to screw into. You'll also need to pre-install a 'fishing cable' to route the screen cable up to the box, through the wall.

To start the wall mounting, turn off the power to the whole cooker. Use a small flat-head screwdriver to carefully push into the openings around the screen and open the control screen.

Once the back of the panel is removed, you'll see the control board. To avoid any static electric damaging board components, be careful not to touch the board (or discharge any static on your clothes etc, by touching something metal before you do!).

We'll make a note, and take a photo of the wire connections for re-cabling later on:

Red: 9-36V

Green: 485_A

White: 485_B

Black: GND

Once the cable is removed, you can fix the back panel to your back box/pattress box using the screws provided.

Fish the cable from the Aga Cooker up through the back box, then reconnect it to the control panel in the same order as it was in the photo above.

Make sure the screen is the right way up - the GND connection is towards the bottom of the screen, the red cable identifies the top of the screen. You can then gently press it into the mounted back panel until it clicks into place (don't press on the glass!).

If your screen breaks, we can post a replacement out to you - just get in touch with us for prices and shipping etc.

Turn the power back onto the cooker and your screen will automatically power up.

Here's some dimensions of the screen if you need them:

Aga Badge Melted?

183:817035457 (Steven Johnson) — Tue, 20 May 2025 17:21:05 GMT

Has your Aga badge melted? Don't panic, this is very very common! The badge design was changed in around 2010 and are now made using a zinc cast and chrome-plated with black epoxy resin - it's not vitreous enamel like your front/doors and top plate.

If damp clothes etc have been placed over the towel rail in front of the badge, the steam and heat between the clothes and the Aga front plate, can create much higher temperatures than normal, and the badge epoxy melts. This is why it's not recommended to dry washing on the towel rail - use one of our airers instead!

Once the Aga badge has melted, you have two choices:

Remove the rest of the black epoxy to leave a completely silver badge.
Replace it with a new badge.

You can pull up a comfy seat and use a razor blade to carefully scrape the rest of the black parts off. Some customers have found success using acetone but we don't recommend it. If you do use it, be VERY careful as it can instantly ruin your enamel front if any contact is made! Scraping the badge clean is a bit tedious but is the most fool-proof way of preventing it from happening again. Here's one we did for one of our customers:

If you want to replace your Aga badge completely, you can try contacting AGA direct. They'll normally ask for your serial number of your new aga model (refurbished models aren't usually covered!) and send you a one-time replacement.

If your cooker is a refurbished model, contact your refurbisher for a replacement - we can't sell any badges unfortunately, as they're a copyrighted brand mark.

How To Set The Esse Timer

Thu, 08 May 2025 17:34:07 GMT

Wondering how to set the automatic timer on your Esse Cooker? Keep reading!

The Esse 1000 (and 1600) T and X models are now supplied with an integrated timer as standard.

To improve efficiency and reduce heat up times, you can set a schedule to turn your Esse on or off at certain points in the day. The Esse Timer can turn the ovens and hotplates on whenever needed, then bring the cooker back into slumber mode after the cooking cycle is finished.

Need to override the timer for a quick "out of schedule" meal? Easy! Just press the middle two buttons to override. After 24hrs, your Esse timer will turn back on and resume the schedule.

For setting the timer, follow the instructions in the Esse instructional video below:

What Happened to Blake and Bull?

Sat, 15 Mar 2025 14:32:19 GMT

The Aga Cooker refurbishing market has changed drastically.

In the past few years, we've seen quite a few independent aga engineers retire or choose alternative business ventures, AGA agents closing shops and the biggest refurbisher in the market (Blake and Bull) going into liquidation.

Some of these are personal choices, some of them down to poor management and others just bad luck. From our 40+ years of experience, the problem with the market is (mainly) the fluctuations. There is no consistent standard for the number of sales each month - that's why you usually see winter, easter, summer sales etc, to boost turnover in the slower periods (especially from bigger companies that have large overheads to cover).

Blake and Bull were the biggest Aga refurbishment company in the UK, and industry friends of ours.

They had built a fantastic business and had a huge loyal following of customers who had experienced their services and the company culture first hand.

They announced their closure seemingly out of the blue in January 2025. Everyone in the industry was shocked. I spoke to their founder Matthew shortly after they officially closed and our conversation was a bittersweet one. Blake and Bull had incredible growth in a relatively short period of time. Companies can quickly grow arms and legs with an enthusiastic entrepreneur at the helm and a big team behind them, but it's not always the best way to operate 24/7 (or sustainable in a niche industry like ours).

Mental burnout is real, and a company can loose it's small family business 'feel', their attention to detail and good reputation by focusing too much on growth.

Here at Saltire, we've learned from the downturns and have lots of experience in this market (we've been working with Aga Cookers since 1988!). Over the years we've worked hard to establish ourselves as the go-to company for ElectricKit Conversions and Reconditioned Aga Cookers across the whole of the UK, and further afield. We've always worked with Business and Financial Advisors throughout our business journey, to give us some good footings, essential management skills and the invaluable experience they bring to the table.

I'd happily talk about business, strategy, branding and marketing for hours, and the (slight) obsession has proved helpful with Saltire over the past 6 years. Although, we did focused on growth for too long.

Since we started as an official limited company in 2019 until 2024, we saw our sales numbers double every single year. It was fantastic from a business growth perspective, but a huge strain on resources and our team morale.

After a particularly stressful year (our busiest year on record!), we decided to scale back the business, and reduced our operating expenses by over 60%. It sounds counterintuitive, but the stress on the team, time away from their families and op-ex costs were just too much to be sustainable, so we had to scale back slightly.

It's the best decision we've ever made.

We'd rather our team at Saltire Cookers have a great work/life balance and keep our focus on quality over quantity . That's why we'd never be in a race to be the cheapest option - cutting corners to save profit or throwing cookers out left right and centre for turnover's sake - we put too much time, attention and craft into what we do. The conversation with Matthew from Blake and Bull proved this to be the right move for us.

Managing teams of engineers, an office full of sales staff, fleets of vans on the road and huge premises isn't for us. The risk/reward doesn't fit with our company vision and we love that our small family business is just that - a bunch of engineers who love what they do.

We've built Saltire from the ground up, with a customer-focused approach. We give you all the information and unbiased advice you need, to make an informed decision on the perfect range cooker for you, and we're here to stay.

A rare 'behind the scenes' post from me today, but I like to share what's going on with Saltire, what happened to Blake and Bull, and the market in general. It's always good to stay informed!

- Steven

2024 Aga Cooker Reporting!

Wed, 29 Jan 2025 20:52:41 GMT

Hello! Its the end of January as I write this, so I'm a tad late in our 'end of year' reporting, but December is our crazy month so things ran away from me.

I've just finished our company reports for 2024 and I thought they'd be quite interesting for you to see (if you find charts and spreadsheets interesting like me).

Aga Cooker Conversions

It's been a busy year for us with our electric aga conversions . More and more, people are looking to move away from fossil fuels and towards a more controllable and flexible solution for their aga.

Our ElectricKit Conversions were our most popular with 56% of all our 2024 conversions choosing the system. It's not surprising, with the release of the Advanced version, along with their long standing reputation of being the most reliable system available.

eControl are close behind with 31% of user choice and the 'always on' 13amp system taking 13%.

Aga Cooker Sizes

This one took me by surprise! If I had to have guessed, I'd have chosen our 2 Oven models as the most popular but it looks like the 4 Oven models are a slight favourite.

The 4 Oven models are 1.5m wi de and give you phenomenal cooking space with 4 large ovens and an extra 'warming plate'.

The 2 O ven and 3 Oven models are both 1m wide . The 2 Oven models are most popular with our flexible electric systems, as both ovens are temperature controllable so they give plenty of adjustment for day-to-day cooking.

Although the 3 Oven models are the youngest models we supply (and the most symmetrical!), they took last place with 17% of orders, but we'd guess that their higher price point might contribute to this!

Aga Cooker Fuel Systems

The popular fuel types have been a bit of a mixed bag in 2024.

Our ElectricKit Conversion system was our most popular at 31% of total order for fully refurbished aga cookers. Its flexibility, induction upgrades, reliability and ability to control running costs keeps it a firm favourite.

Our Oil Aga Cookers are always one of our top performing fuel types across Scotland (at 22% of all orders in 2024). Rural properties, farms and more off-grid locations almost always have an oil tank onsite. The main reasons for deciding against an efficient electric model, is the inability to operate during power cuts.

Our traditional gas and the 'always on' 13amp electric are tied in next place at 17% of total orders, with the eControl system behind at 13%.

So, I hope that little insight in to our reporting was intriguing! There does seem to be a shift towards ElectricKit this year, which explains the results above, but the 'always on' models still have a place in aga-owners hearts. The lovely ambient heat, the always on convenience and the traditional "aga feel" is still a winner in the market.

Aga Oven Temperature Guide

Sat, 25 Jan 2025 14:31:25 GMT

A lot of our customers inherit their Aga Cooker with house sales. Whilst it's great to inherit the heart of the home, it can be somewhat daunting, especially as most traditional Aga Cookers don't have typical oven temperature indicators. That's why we created this quick guide to finding your perfect aga oven temperatures.

How Hot Should your Aga Cooker be?

The easiest rule to remember is:

Ideally, an Aga Cooker should be around 220-240c in the top right-hand oven.

This allows the rest of the ovens and plates to fall in line with retrospective temperatures.

An Aga Cooker isn't a conventional oven. It uses gentle radiant heat from the cast iron, as opposed to the dry, fan-propelled air of modern cookers. This is why 230c sounds like a high temperature in comparison to its counterparts. This radiant-heat cooking method is gentler on food and helps to lock in nutrients and flavour - delicious!

Roasting Oven: 220c to 240c

Baking Oven: 170c to 190c

Simmering Oven: 110 to 140c

Warming Oven: 60c to 80c

Boiling Plate: approx 315c

Simmering Plate: approx 215c

Your 'heat indicator' is located above the roasting oven door. When your Aga is at optimum temperature, the mercury should be somewhere between the black and red zones. Some may run more towards the red, some may run more towards the black - it's best to test your top oven temperature for a more accurate reading.

How Do You Take Temperature Readings?

To take temperature readings, you'll need an in-oven thermometer.

Make sure you place your thermometer on a shelf, in the dead centre of the oven (half way up and half way to the back).
This placement gives you the most accurate temperature reading from an aga.
Only keep your thermometer in the oven for a maximum of 10 minutes. Any longer and they can degrade from the heat.
Take a reading as soon as your oven door is opened.

The diagrams here show you how the heat moves around your aga cooker - with the hottest parts receiving the heat first, and the coolest receiving the heat last.

Traditional Aga cookers take around 7 hours to heat up from cold. ( Our Efficient Remanufactured Models take as little as 50 minutes!).
If you adjust the temperature setting slightly, you should wait around 4 hours for it to rise/fall in temperature.

 Our Controllable ElectricKit System allows a lot more controllability vs traditional aga cookers:

You can turn individual ovens on/off or up and down in temperature.
Using the hot plates does not affect oven temperature.
Upgrade one of your hot plates to an induction hob unit.
Schedule the ovens to turn on and off whenever you need.
Extremely efficient in running costs (less than £1 per day is possible!).

Upgrade your current aga to an ElectricKit system or buy of of our Refurbished Aga Cookers with the system pre-installed.

How to light an Oil Aga Cooker

Sun, 22 Sep 2024 10:32:56 GMT

Looking for Lighting Instructions for Oil Aga Cookers? Just follow the steps below.

At Saltire Cookers, we refurbish traditional models of aga cookers, including oil, as well as gas and our popular electric models .

We also offer Electric Conversions for cheaper running costs , and refurbishments for existing cookers - we're busy boys!

If you need to Light your Oil Aga, we've got some easy-to-follow instructions here. You might need some fresh wicks, as well as clear flue-ways and a serviced burner with carbon build-up removed - but your aga engineer would do this during it's regular servicing appointment.

If your burner is HOT, do not relight it - it's very dangerous! Let it fully cool before trying to light again.

Some pre-lighting checks:

A cool burner.
Open valves from the tank to the burner.
Fresh wicks.
Electric plug switched on (if you have one).
Clear flue-ways
Only use commercial kerosene (BS2869: Class C2 suitable for vapourising burners).

Oil Aga Lighting Instructions:

1. Go to your Oil Control Valve (OCV) located on the side of your Aga Cooker. It can be on the left or the right hand side.

2. The "Reset Lever" is the metal lever sticking out of the back of the OCV. It slides up and down and will 'click' once engaged.

If you have the "BM" OCV (Oval in shape), make sure it's in the UP position.

If you have the "TOBY" OCV (Small, square-shaped), make sure it's in the DOWN position.

Top-View of the Oil Control Valves:

3. You might have a square Electric Box connected to the top of your OCV. This is for automatic oil control. Make sure this plug is turned on, and the Lever on top is switched to "Automatic" (slide to the right side).

4. Open your control door, and remove the inner burner door. Lift the inner door up and out, to remove it from its latches.

5. Wait 15 minutes for the oil to enter the burner chambers and saturate the wicks.

6. Identify the "lighting flap" on the perforated burner shell. It might slide open, or lift open like a flap, depending on the version. Open the flap and light the wick with a match - make sure you don't knock the burner shells as this will affect the burn.

7. Close the lighting flap and re-seat the inner burner door. Make sure it's secure.

8. Switch off the electric transformer plug.

9. After about 30 minutes, look through the viewing glass on the inner burner door and the flames should have settled to a nice blue colour.

10. Switch on the electric transformer plug to resume automatic control.

If your wicks don't light, check that your fire valve hasn't tripped due to any downdraught in the flue.

The fire valve is a circular device with a button and a metal wire entering the aga. It should be located on the oil line, next to your OCV.

Press the button down, to reset the fire valve. If it pops up again, you'll need to wait for the burner temperature to cool before trying again.

A Refurbished Aga on a Loch

Sat, 10 Aug 2024 12:00:22 GMT

A first for us in Scotland - delivering and installing an aga cooker, on a very remote site, across a loch ��

Our client first got in touch with us a year prior, to source a refurbished aga cooker for their home outside of London. After chatting with them for a while, we all agreed the eControl Conversion System was the best fit for them; with the temperature control and no reliance on fossil fuels.

After we installed their 4 Oven Refurbished Aga Cooker in England, they were overjoyed! They loved the system and the experience of buying one of our refurbished models, so they agreed to place another eControl Converted model inside their Scottish home, to benefit from solar power.

It wasn't an ordinary Scottish home, though. This old manor house was tucked away on the shore of a remote loch, deep in the highlands.

Inaccessible by road, a landing craft boat is your only choice! Archie and I set off on the 4 hour drive to the meeting point on the side of the loch, taking in some lovely scenery on the way.

We unloaded the aga cooker from our van, and put it onto a pallet, piece by piece. It was loaded onto the landing craft and we jumped on too, for the roughly 20 minute jaunt across the loch. This is one of the benefits of the traditional models that we refurbish - they are all built up on site. This makes installation easier for those harder to reach sites, like a loch or in a tenement flat!.

In the video here, you can see the little buggy we had for crossing the terrain once we were on the other side.

Watch our Instagram Reel below:

Once we got to the other side, we unloaded and got to work. the whole build process takes quite a few hours, making sure the levels, seals and insulation are correctly installed for the best possible efficiency. Cookers with gaps in their insulation, or improper seals will leak heat like nobody's business!

The eControl electric elements are placed below and above each cast iron oven, to give you faster heat up times and direct heat where you need it. The ovens are then wrapped in the high-temperature insulating blanket, and once the top plate is fitted, the two independent hotplates are slid into place. Each of these have their own element, so that their usage doesn't affect the oven temperatures. Traditional 'always on' aga cookers are designed with one heat source, so the more you use the hotplates, the more heat is sucked out of your ovens. Not with our controllable electric options!

Here's a nice little diagram of this aga cooker, that kept me busy for 10 minutes or so! It shows each part of the cooker, and the flexibility that the eControl conversion offers, compared to the traditional models.

The Underground Bunker

Sun, 17 Mar 2024 08:21:20 GMT

In Aberdeenshire, an inconspicuous house sits on top of a secret underground bunker - with a lovely aga cooker inside!

One of our meticulously refurbished traditional models looks right at home inside the bunker. The 'Military Grey' shade of enamel blends into the Cold War style of the surroundings. Originally built in the 1950's as part of the RAF's secret intelligence program, the bunker spans a massive 10,000 sq ft of space and includes a library, kitchen, plant room, operations room, living room and a few bedrooms!

I made the trip to the bunker (I couldn't help myself!), to assist with the build, and ferrying lumps of cast iron down the windy tunnel and through the multiple blast doors. We were lucky enough to have an interesting tour around the bunker by the owner, who is currently restoring the bunker to it's original state, whilst incorporating some unique artistic projects.

Once all of the cast iron had been taken underground, the build could start.

After a thorough consultation, the 'always on' 13amp aga cooker was identified as the winner for this project. The ambient air temperature is rather chilly in the bunker, at 9c, because of the thick concrete walls and the depth underground. The owner wanted a traditional piece of history to occupy the space in the kitchen, and something to give the space a welcoming warmth. Since install, the room temperature is a cosy 20c!

George the cat was a lovely companion during the build and he took the opportunity for a nice cat nap inside the hotcupboard (before it was installed of course!). Steve and I completed the build with only a few setbacks - which is fairly normal when working with these much older models of aga cooker. Each one is unique and has a whole history behind it. This model would have been originally run by anthracite (coal), then converted to oil by a customer in the Scottish Highlands. We completely stripped it down, refurbished it, replaced some odd and broken parts then it was ready for it's new home!

2023 Summary

Thu, 28 Dec 2023 17:19:09 GMT

What a year! I've been diving into reporting and End-of-Year stats for all of the spreadsheet goodness.

2023 has been our busiest year on record! We think it's mostly down to the movement away from fossil fuels, push to reduce running costs with the energy crisis, and a lot of home renovations.

Here's a snapshot of my big year-end reporting spreadsheet, for those who love stats:

Our total order volume has doubled since last year.
We have reduced our projected labour costs by 50%.
The amount of cast iron we enamel has increased by 210% vs last year.

I'd love to go more in-depth with different orders etc, but our reporting from last year isn't detailed enough! Fingers crossed next year we can get a great side-by-side comparison now that our reporting system is all setup and ticking away.

This whole year we've invested a LOT into the business.

Online Spaces. My background in IT and Web Design helps with this, but I really love learning more about recent updates, how to navigate building online platforms etc. It's a whole different world to wrap your head around but very interesting.

Business Advisors, Financial Advisors etc. At the start of the business, I was spinning MANY plates, trying to change from a solo engineer to a fully-fledged, structured business. Once Scott joined last year, it was a blessing to split the workload. We have had some invaluable advice from our independent Business Advisor and our expert Financial Advisor too. We structured the business for longevity, quality and sustainability - perfect for passing down the generations.

Warehouse and Machinery. A lot of our investment has been into our workshop equipment and cutting down time, as well as increasing productivity. We've also had a new van and a new 4x4, which is brilliant in the Scottish winter months! We've also outgrown our new warehouse so we have an additional storage unit to house all of our cast iron before shotblasting - a relief to be able to move around the workshop again!

Labour Costs. We're reduced our reliance on subcontractors compared to last year. Diary updates, lots of training and our new members of staff, makes it all possible. We can manage the time and quality of our products/services much better with in-house engineers (and the odd vetted-subcontactor here and there!)

Personal Growth. I fear that I'm actually obsessed with developing as a business owner! Between the mountain of books I've read this year, seminars attended, and countless meetings, we are constantly learning and growing as owners and engineers. Our approach has changed this year, from our scaling and growth stage, to a continued sustainability approach.

To reduce the business costs this year, we have:

Increased in-house engineer jobs.
Benefiting from reduced fuel pricing for our vans.
Invested in staff and training to manage workflow.
Structured our diaries to increase the number of jobs without engineer burn-out.
Bulk-ordering parts and investing in fabrication to reduce shipping costs.

Even with these reductions, the prices of parts, staff, plating, enamelling, utilities etc have all increased. We always try to put off price rises as much as possible but theres only so much preaching our Financial Advisor can do before she loses her voice! So we have a planned price rise from January. Ordering now will save you a few hundred pounds as well as the free installation on controllable models promotion this month.

As you can see, Saltire Cookers is a well-oiled machine, here for the long haul. We're an established team, fully-fledged business and we're frequently praised for the top-level customer service, attention to detail and quality of our cookers, so you know you're in good hands.

The Aga cooker world is busier than ever - with hundreds converting to controllable electric to reduce their running costs, many refurbishing the aga cooker family heirloom, and even more finally getting the Aga Cooker of their dreams.

A Solid Fuel Aga Cooker Conversion

Tue, 19 Dec 2023 10:48:54 GMT

One of our more challenging Aga Cooker conversions, but 100% worth it.

Inside their childhood home, this customer's Aga Cooker was originally made to run from solid fuel - easy to spot with the small aperture behind the control door (where the old 'fire door' would have sat) as well as the 'air wheel' at the top left of the front plate.

Converted to oil a decade ago, this model was eventually turned off for around 5 years due to rising costs and inefficiency. After a long discussion about options, and reading all the information on our website, they decided to keep their childhood Aga Cooker but convert to a flexible electric system.

They initially approached local engineers and companies offering the eControl conversion but was turned away, with the advice that it just couldn't be done. A few attempted to immediately 'upsell' them to a new fully refurbished model (at a huge cost!). But after contacting us and explaining their problem, we worked with them to find a solution.

The internals of the Pre Solid fuel (post-conversion) are more-or-less the same as an oil/gas Pre, or a Post model. The only hindrance was the small aperture behind the control door... So, we came up with a solution. To keep their childhood Aga cooker, we would have to cut a notch out of the enamelled front plate to accommodate the new eControl panel - very risky stuff, but we love a challenge.

The main struggles with this eControl Conversion was the seized bolts due to the long time it had been off, and the obvious adjustments needed to the original front plate. After we had stripped the cooker down to the bare bones, the notch was cut out, and new liners fitted to the lids and doors for a fresh feel. We also discovered two old boiler pipes sitting inside the cooker. These were left inside when the internal boiler had been removed some years ago, sucking heat out of the internals and feeding it into a random cupboard upstairs! The flue was also completely blocked, which explains why they had complained of a strong oil smell when it was last turned on - quite dangerous indeed...

Once it was reassembled with the eControl elements and controls, their childhood Aga cooker was whole again - but this time, much safer and much more flexible!

Reduce Your Aga Cooker Running Costs

Mon, 04 Sep 2023 17:47:47 GMT

Aga Cooker owners across the UK are looking at ways to reduce their energy usage when it comes to their AGA Cooker. We've put together a list of 10 hints and tips from Aga Cooker Owners to help you cut costs and save money.

1) Minimise hotplate usage.

The traditional cooking style still applies with conversions - using the hotplates less (or not at all!), will save you on running costs. As soon as your lids are lifted, the heat escapes quickly and your AGA Cooker will start to 'fire' up to replace that lost heat.

2) Use your ovens as much as possible.

Aga cooker owners tend to live by the 80/20 rule, or 7 minute rule. 80% of cooking is to be done in the ovens, or anything over 7 minutes on the hotplate can be cooked on the floor of the ovens. You can use the floor of the roasting oven as an 'internal hotplate'. For example, if you're boiling a pan of tatties, start them on the hotplate then once boiling, move them into the roasting oven and close the hotplate.

3) Bring food to room temperature before cooking.

If you whack a big dish straight from the fridge/freezer into the ovens, it will almost instantly 'suck' all of the heat out (heat which you'll pay to replace!). To avoid this, make sure you let dishes completely defrost or reach room temperature before cooking, when appropriate.

4) Make your own 'hot water bottles'

Search for smooth, large pebbles and place them into the simmering oven. After a short while, carefully take them out, wrap them in a towel and they'll warm your lap when you're reading the newspaper or watching TV. Smaller pebbles can be put in your pockets as DIY hand warmers or to pre-warm your wellies before a trek out in the cold.

5) Replace your appliances

If your Aga cooker is on, use that radiant heat to dry clothes instead of using a dryer. Instead of using your George Forman to grill sandwiches, use the simmering plate. Keep your kettle on the warming plate or trivet to reduce the amount of time needed to boil.

6) Simmer microwavable food.

Whenever you are using microwavable food - use your simmering oven instead! It may take longer but anything labelled as 'microwave safe' can be used in your simmering oven.

7) Invest in Lid and Warming Plate covers.

Fabric covers for your domes and warming plate can help keep some heat inside. Admittedly, the official word from AGA Rangemaster, is to make sure you don't leave these on 24/7. A lot of owners oppose this and have used them 24/7 for years without issue. We have to warn you though, because every Aga cooker is different. Your lids might run hotter than others!

8) Use a 'stove fan' on top of your shroud or between the hotplates.

We have use these before. A simple stove fan, perched on the top of the shroud on our 13amp Aga cooker. It whirled away using the ambient heat, pushing the warm air further into the room, rather than losing it to the skylight above!

9) Upgrade your Lid and Door Insulation and Seals.

Traditionally, your lid domes and doors would be filled with standard Rockwool insulation (the same stuff used in attics!). Newer 13amp models, Controllable on/off models and some refurbished models already have upgraded ceramic insulation inside. If you think you have old insulation inside, you can upgrade to high density Ceramic Fibre Insulation. With much higher insulating properties than rockwool, you'll leak less heat and therefore save money! If your door/lid seals have lost their soft spongy texture and are hard or brittle, consider replacing them to make sure you have a good seal around your ovens and hotplates.

10) Convert your Aga Cooker to controllable electric.

It may seem like an investment but the payback can be as little as 2 and a half years! You can read more about the a vailable conversions , with pros and cons for each, but the simple summary is - you can turn individual parts of your Aga Cooker on and off to save energy usage. Time your cooker to switch off overnight but reach full temperature by breakfast. Turn your hotplates off completely or upgrade to an induction hotplate for instant heat and reduce the running costs even more.

We're in the news!

Sat, 12 Aug 2023 19:48:21 GMT

I recently sat down with Business Gateway to chat about the advice and support we'd received as part of the Scottish Government Initiative to help small businesses grow. See the extract below:

How To Identify Your Aga Cooker

Sun, 26 Mar 2023 12:50:15 GMT

We can refurbish, convert or supply a fully renovated model in any of the below versions.

Age is but a number - We use Aga Cookers originally forged from anywhere as early as 1941, up to present day. The castings are still full of life and can work for generations after we've had our hands on them!

The traditional model of Aga Cooker was originally called the "Standard" model. They used to be strictly available in Solid Fuel and cream in colour, but now, we have efficient electric models and our range of 60+ colours to choose from.

Introduced in 1956 as a 'modern' upgrade to the Standard design, the Deluxe is our most loved model of Aga Cooker. The Deluxe models of Aga Range Cooker mainly come in three different 'versions'. These have very slight deviations but all follow the same design features. We'll list the differences below that will help you identify your own cooker, or choose the model of your 'new' reconditioned model!

A quick note: If you already own an Aga Cooker, there is a chance that it may have been refurbished at some point in its lifetime. In these cases, some engineers and refurbishing companies/engineers mix features of different models.

Popular "mixes" include a 4 oven Post-95 top plate on a 4 oven Post-74 Aga Range Cooker, for example. This offers better aesthetics, easier installation and increased longevity. You might find some towel rails mixed too, and enamel lids installed on earlier models, or chrome lids on trad models. It really depends on who refurbished the cooker and what the customer requested. Most of the features are purely for looks, and won't affect the running of the cooker, but it's something to keep in mind if you're looking to identify your own model.

(1941-1973) Standard Aga Cooker

The standard models (or 'trad' models as we call them!), have the classic 'Aga Cooker' look, with the badge built into the enamel front, chrome lever and vented cover on the front plate. They were all originally made for solid fuel, which is why they have an 'air lever' and 'fire door' on the front plate.

Original models would be filled with a fine 'Kieselguhr' (fullers earth) powder insulation which is VERY messy to remove. On these older models, the only possible asbestos insulation is inside the lid seals or some internal seals - the loose-fill insulation is non-toxic.

Any converted to gas/oil with a copper pipe running along the front of the cooker and into the fire door/grill, will most likely still have the original powder insulation inside. Many have been converted properly, with half, or all, of the original insulation and seals replaced with modern alternatives (vermiculite and glass rope seals).

The doors latch onto enamel 'nibs' built into the cast iron front.

The resale value of these are nil and engineers will charge a high fee for dismantling, removal and disposal.

Pre-74 Solid Fuel Deluxe Aga Cooker

These models were originally solid fuel, similar to the Standard Traditional Models, but many have since been upgraded or converted. Original models would be filled with a fine 'Kieselguhr' (fullers earth) powder insulation which is VERY messy to remove. On these older models, the only possible asbestos insulation is inside the lid seals or some internal seals - the loose-fill insulation is non-toxic.

Identifiable by the "Air Wheel" or blanking plate at the top left hand side of the front plate, as well as the Pre-74 towel rail and wide shelf at the back of the top plate.

The doors latch onto enamel 'nibs' built into the cast iron front.

These models also have a small fire door or opening behind the large control door. The resale value of these are nil. Engineers will charge a fee for dismantling, removal and disposal.

Pre-74 Deluxe Aga Cooker

These models were originally available in Oil and Gas. Most models would be filled with vermiculite loose-fill insulation, with a layer of Rockwool under the top plate.

Identifiable by the towel rail sitting on top of the enamelled brackets, and the wide shelf at the back of the top plate. The shelf makes this a popular model for those who like the traditional look, as well as functionality of resting kettles etc on the back shelf. 4 Oven models had one-piece top plate, with a long towel rail, spanning the width of the cooker.

The lids are sometimes matched in colour with the front plate enamel, and have deep chrome domes.

The cast iron castings are slightly thicker than newer models, offering slightly better heat retention but also may take longer to fully saturate with heat from cold.

These models have a big control door and big opening behind it, with the same size as the oven doors. The resale value of these are nil. Engineers will charge a fee for dismantling, removal and disposal.

Post-74 Deluxe Aga Cooker

The Post-1974 ovens are slightly smaller than Pre-74 models (A negligible size difference really!). Originally Oil or Gas, many have since been converted to electricity for efficiency or practicality. Most models would have been filled with vermiculite loose-fill insulation, with a layer of Rockwool insulation under the top plate.

The top plate is mostly flat, with a small up-stand right at the back - not big enough to put anything on, but offers a clean look. The lids are hinged by a lid pin, with shallow chrome domes for a modern look.

The towel rail is seated in-between two enamelled brackets, and there is a small strip of enamel visible above the thermometer.

The doors latch onto enamel 'nibs' built into the cast iron front.

4 Oven models will have two separate towel rails, with an additional joining strip in-between the two top plates. Early models had a one-piece top plate (similar to pre-74 cookers), but these were quickly discontinued, so these are extremely rare.

The resale value of these is usually minimal if anything. Engineers will charge to remove, with some refurbishing companies potentially offering a few hundred pounds for parts depending on their stock levels, or to remove for free, depending on market demand, and the condition of the cooker.

Post-1995 Deluxe Aga Cooker

Our standard offering for traditional Oil and Gas Aga Cookers. Originally available in Oil, Gas or 13amp Electric, these models had the small updates from the Post-74 models. The top plate remains the same, with springs usually incorporated into the lid hinges, to make them appear lighter and easier to lift. Fully enamelled lids are available as an alternative to the chrome lids.

The towel rail is seated in-between two brackets, and there is a small strip of enamel visible above the thermometer.

The doors have similar enamelled door catches as the Post-74 models, with a 3-vented control door on 2 and 4 oven models. Very early 3-oven models will have enamelled door latches, instead of the chrome from later post-2000 models.

4 Oven models will have two towel rails, joined by a claw bracket holder. The 'joining strip' for the top plates is built into the casting on the hotcupboard side. We tend to offer this Post-95 hotcupboard top plate as standard on all models for ease of install, improved aesthetics and increased longevity.

Engineers will charge to remove, with some refurbishing companies potentially offering a few hundred pounds for parts, or to remove for free, depending on market demand, stock levels and the condition of the cooker.

Post-2000 Deluxe Aga Cooker

VERY similar to the above Post-1995. The only noticeable differences are the lids and door laches.

The lids are usually wider than the early Post-1995 models, with no springs inside the hinges and wider lid handles. The door latches are metal/chrome and the doors usually have thicker metal hinge pins, with adjustment grub screws.

3 Oven models are also available (originally gas, oil and 13amp - the oil models were quickly discontinued). Early 3-oven models may have enamelled door latches, from the 1990's/early 2000s.

Limited Edition Millennium Aga Cooker

Effectively the same cooker as Post-2000 models, but with the edition of an all-chrome badge and chrome surrounds around the openings of the ovens.

Originally it was only available in black, but we can now re-enamel these models in any of our colours.

Limited Edition Classic Aga Cooker

Effectively the same cooker as Post-2000 models, but with the edition of decorative chrome lever and finishings on the front plate, to mimic the design of the trad models.

Originally it was only available in cream, matching cream badge and enamelled lids, but we can now re-enamel these models in any of our colours.

The eControl Aga Cooker Conversion

Sun, 22 Jan 2023 21:32:10 GMT

CONTROLLABLE FOR SUMMER. FLEXIBLE COOKING STYLE.

We offer the independent eControl conversion inside one of our Fully Refurbished Aga Range Cookers , or a retro-fit conversion for existing cookers.

The eControl Kit is a third-party conversion system (not an official AGA product), and utilises electric elements above and below the cast iron ovens to allow even distribution of heat, with unprecedented heat up times. The kit has been tested and approved as UK Conformity Assessed, and comes with its own 5 year parts guarantee, direct from the manufacturer.is

The eControl Conversion is controlled via the sleek control panel, allowing you to manually control the temperatures of each hotplate and oven.

Each hob can be individually turned on and off (with user-set temperatures), plus the extra option of an Eco Mode (low heat) for lower running costs and improved heat-up times.

Each oven temperature can be adjusted to allow Roasting/Simmering, Roasting/Baking or Baking/Warming - yes, you can have a baking oven on the 2 oven model!

When the ovens are switched on, the temperature is dictated by the temperature dials and the target temperature is shown on the displays.

When ECO MODE is activated, the Top Right Hand oven automatically turns to a baking temperature and all other ovens switch off. Some residual heat will transfer down to the bottom oven for gentle warming.

ECONTROL HEAT UP TIMES

With your traditional 'always on' Aga range cooker, you don't have to worry about heat up times. With the eControl, you have the option to use your range 24/7, or (for even lower running costs), use it as and when needed. This is probably the steepest learning curve when it comes to post-conversion life! To make the transition easier for you, you could start by running your ovens on ECO MODE (baking oven temperature in the top right hand oven) 24/7. This is the most efficient way of keeping an 'always on' oven, with cheaper energy bills.

Everybody will use the eControl system differently. Some users will opt to keep the hotplates on for ambient warmth, others will turn them off completely, turn the Aga Range Cooker to ECO, and focus on running as cheaply as possible.

For the most efficient running of the eControl system , we recommend turning your cooker off at night, and using the hotplates as little as possible (also turning them off completely). If you're using your ovens or hotplates more than 3 times throughout the day, we recommend keeping one on constantly, to save heating from cold each time. Even running them at a lower 'slumber' temperature and turning up before use would be sufficient. Make sure you check your energy supplier tariff to get the best kw/hr price available.

Top Oven

(from cold) – Roasting (220c) in 62mins.

(from cold) - Baking (180c) in 44mins.

(from Eco) – Roasting (220c) in 20mins.

plus 30 minutes for temperature stabalisation.

Hotplates

(from cold) – Cooking temp in 8-10mins.

(from cold) - Boiling in 14mins.

(from Eco) – Full Temperature in 5mins.

INSTAHOB is a circular electric ceramic hob that replaces your right-hand steel hotplate, giving you instant heat when you need it.

As you can see from the heat-up times, utilising ECO mode in-between cooking times can reduce your waiting times whilst still reducing your running costs vs 24/7 full temperature usage.

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES?

Advantages of the eControl Conversion:

British-Made and Built in England.
Eco-Mode available for quick access to reduced ambient heat and running costs.
Cooks like a traditional Aga Range Cooker (radiant heat).
Option to reduce running costs vs traditional models.
Keep your Aga Range Cooker on, even in the Summer.
Ability to have two boiling hotplates if needed.
Electric Ceramic Hob option available for instant heat.
No Servicing costs.
No Flue Required (can be located anywhere).
No more reduced oven temperatures when using the hot plates.
5 year manufacturer parts warranty for peace of mind.
Fully Controllable Temperatures.
Choose Roasting, Simmer, Warming or Baking Oven, even on 2 oven models.
Temperature Display for ovens.
2, 3, 4 and 5 Oven Models Available.
Option for external fan functionality.

Disadvantages of the eControl Conversion:

Fairly new to the market (first release in 2021).
More electrical components, mean more possible repairs.
Reduced ambient heat to the room (vs traditional).
Reliant on Electricity (power outages will render it defunct).
Unable to work alongside an existing internal Aga Range Cooker Hot Water Boiler.
Maximum hotplate temperature when lids are closed is simmering (we recommend switching OFF when not in use).
Top runner of the Roasting Oven is occupied by a removable metal baffle plate to dissipate heat.
Higher initial outlay than other conversions.
No temperature displays for hotplate temperatures.
32amp or 40amp supply needed (some electric work may be required).
More difficult for engineers to replace elements etc due to the design (vs ElectricKit).
Longer installation time compared to ElectricKit (still within one day).
No internal WiFi option - only a third party ON/OFF timer available.
Hotplates may sit slightly proud of the black enamel top plate due to additional elements and insulation.
4 oven models have an element cassette which occupies/reduces the space inside the warming oven.
No induction upgrade available, only the ceramic hob upgrade.

WHAT ARE THE ECONTROL RUNNING COSTS?

Each eControl Aga Range Cooker and family will have different running costs depending on how they use the cooker.

An automatic ON/OFF timer can be used turn the Aga Range Cooker on/off at set intervals.

This is particularly useful when the house is empty during normal working hours, and you have meals at roughly the same time.

There's always the option to use the cooker as and when you need it (or on 24/7!) that's the joy of eControl.

Use the below kw/hr figures to work out prices on your current electricity tariff and price per unit.

We've estimated using the 0.34p per kw price, but you will also have your daily standing charge.

ECO MODE ON 24/7

Top oven @ Baking Temp. Bottom oven OFF (with passive warming temp)

0.22 kWh or £12.57 per week

TOP OVEN ON 24/7

Top oven @ Roasting Temp. Bottom oven OFF (with passive simmering temp)

0.27 kWh or £15.42 per week

BOTH OVENS ON 24/7

Top oven @ Roasting Temp. Bottom oven @ Simmering Temp

0.34 kWh or £19.42 per week

BOTH OVENS ON 24/7

Top oven @ Roasting Temp. Bottom oven @ Baking Temp.

0.43 kWh or £24.56 per week

HOTCUPBOARD ON 24/7 (4 Oven Model)

Top LH oven @ Simmering Temp. Bottom LH oven @ Warming Temp.

0.26 kWh or £14.86 per week

HOTPLATE USED WHEN NEEDED

One Hotplate @ Boiling Temp

0.48 kw/hr or £0.16p per hour

HOTPLATE USED WHEN NEEDED

One Hotplate @ Simmering Temp

0.39 kw/hr or £0.13p per hour

BOTH HOTPLATES ON ECO MODE

LH Hotplate @ 200c. RH Hotplate @ 165c.

0.40 kw/hr or £0.14p per hour

HOW MUCH DOES AN ECONTROL CONVERSION COST?

Read this before Converting your Aga Cooker

Sun, 22 Jan 2023 16:45:22 GMT

We've seen a massive uptake in Electric Conversions over the past few years. To help you have realistic expectations of what to expect post-conversion, we've put together this guide.

If you've decided to convert your Aga Cooker to the Controllable ElectricKit System, you're probably wondering how your beloved cooker will perform or how it will work after the conversion is complete.

We've always listed the pros and cons of each model we sell, along with each conversion option. You can find these on each model/conversion page on the website. Hopefully, our honest approach to selling helps set expectations and give you an idea of whats being done, how it's done and how it'll work - which in turn increases customer satisfaction!

The main reason Aga Range Cooker owners are choosing to convert, is to avoid high running costs. Both of our controllable conversions offer reduced running costs, by allowing you to turn ovens and hotplates off/reduced their temperature when not in use.

They are not designed to kick out lots of ambient heat. The ElectricKit System has low running costs due to the insulation used and additional flexibility. The cast iron ovens are tightly wrapped in high-density bio-soluble ceramic fibre blanket. This has much better insulating properties than the standard vermiculite usually used in traditional Aga cookers. Preventing lots of escaped heat, means the heat will stay inside the ovens for longer, and reduce the amount of times the elements need to draw power from your supply.

Heat into the room, is heat you're paying for. In essence, using any Aga cooker to heat your house is VERY inefficient compared to modern central heating systems. The ambient warmth is a by-product of the cast iron ovens and hotplates but there is no such thing as free heat . If you're looking to convert your Aga cooker, but also want lots of ambient heat into the room - some compromise will be needed. You can turn the ovens to full temperature and hotplates on slumber, and have radiant heat into your room, but you'll notice the running costs will rise. Alternatively, if you want the cheapest running costs possible, reducing the radiant heat will help significantly.

The most efficient way of using your cooker, is to utilise the ovens as much as possible. We've found that keeping one oven on 24/7 if you're using them more than 2 or 3 times a day is most efficient. It saves you switching on and off and heating from cold each time. Turning the hotplates off when not in use is also efficient as you'll lose most of the heat once the lids are opened, therefore the element will kick in sooner. Turning the Aga Range Cooker off overnight and utilising an automatic timer will also prove to be beneficial when it comes to your energy bills! It's also worth checking with your supplier for your tariff prices and shop around if possible.

Pre-installation requirements are key. With every order of a controllable cooker/conversion, we send out our detailed pre-installation requirements which include electrical information for your electrician. You'll also get our own user guide with detailed information about each conversion. Please read these throughly and ask as many questions as you need. As mentioned before, we aim to leave you happy and content with your conversion, so honesty and realistic expectations are paramount!

Personally, I (Steven) absolutely love these conversions and I think they're injecting a well-overdue improvement to the industry. The controllability for summer months, ambient heat for winter, and the unparalleled heat up times makes them a perfect all-rounder.

Take a look around our pages here on the website, or give us a call if you need any information.

Upgrade your Aga Cooker Insulation

Tue, 29 Nov 2022 11:24:41 GMT

This 4 Oven 13amp Aga Range Cooker, recently benefitted from our Insulation Upgrade. A complete overhaul of the subpar insulation, with our own specific insulating process for more efficient use and cheaper bills!

When this 13amp 4 Oven Aga Range Cooker was first installed, it was insulated using a mix of vermiculite (the stuff that looks like popcorn), and rockwool (the blankets of loft insulation you see) on top.

The problem is that over time, vermiculite can drop as it settles into crevices and rockwool can deteriorate. When this happens, you can end up with big air pockets in the cooker that you're paying to heat, and it doesn't retain the heat for long. Even if your vermiculite hasn't dropped, modern advancements mean that we have much better insulation available to us to increase the efficiency of your Aga Range Cooker.

Once the old rockwool is removed, our big industrial hoover gets to work - sucking the loose vermiculite out of the Aga Range Cooker. Our insulation process is carried out, then a thick blanket is installed on the top to tuck your cook in, nice and snug! The top plate is put back on and you're good to go!

The majority of other refurbishing companies advertise a repack/insulation upgrade service, which consists of additional vermiculite and a new top blanket. Our process is a complete overhaul. Our repack service and process is specific to us - other companies and engineers will have a different processes they will follow when preforming a repack.

Any ceramic blanket we use is safe and body soluble . We've been very thorough in our research, making sure we don't use the popular (carcinogenic!) aluminium fibre version, which is much cheaper to produce.

We have our own supplier of 100% bio-soluble insulating blanket, which has been proven to disintegrate when it comes in contact with lung membranes - perfect for any dust particles that make it past our masks!

If you decide to enlist the help of another company for your repack, PLEASE make sure you're confident in their knowledge and ability; your health is not worth the risk.

3 Oven Aga Cooker, with eControl Conversion

Fri, 18 Nov 2022 12:32:11 GMT

The 3 Oven Aga Range Cooker is a brilliant, fully-controllable model - perfect for entertaining and everyday use!

The 3 Oven eControl Aga Range Cooker is the result of supply and demand. After the success of the efficient eControl Series 1 and Series 2 conversions for 2 and 4 Oven models, the market saw a demand to convert their (costly) 3 oven 13amp models. Utilising an additional TWO 750w elements, your baking oven benefits from the same even radiant heat distribution as your others. The additional elements increase the electrical requirements (40amp supply), but the functionality of a fully temperature controlled, independent oven is worth it!

It means you can use your Top Right Hand oven on full roasting temperature, whilst having an additional roasting oven in your bottom LH oven. You can also choose to have 3 Baking Ovens, 3 Simmering Ovens, 2 Baking and 1 Roasting etc etc - it's PERFECT for adaptability!!

HOW IT WORKS:

Top Grilling Element - 1000w
Middle Oven Element - 750w
Bottom Oven Element - 750w

LH Top Oven Element - 750w
LH Bottom Oven Element - 750w

LH Hotplate Element - 2000w
RH Hotplate Element - 1500w

Optional INSTAHEAT Ceramic Hob: 2500w

3 OVEN CONTROLS - HOW IT WORKS:

On the Left Hand Side of your Control Panel, you'll see the indicator lights and temperature displays (for Series X models). These lights will illuminate when the internal thermostats are engaged. Lights will turn off once it's reached the set temperature.

Next to the indicator diagram, you'll see your two Controller Dials .

The top dial is your Hotplate Control Dial . The bottom dial is your Oven Control Dial.

HOTPLATE CONTROL DIAL:

Luckily, the dial settings are pretty self explanatory here.

1st Position (top position) for both hotplates OFF.

2nd Position for RH hotplate ON. (Temperatures manually set using temperature dial).

3rd Position for BOTH hotplates ON. (Temperatures manually set using temperature dials).

4th Position for LH hotplate ON. (Temperatures manually set using temperature dial).

5th Position for ECO Mode on both hotplates.

ECO Mode - (Boiling Hotplate @ approx 275c, Simmering @ approx 165c).

ECO Mode overrides any temperatures manually set using the temperature dials.

OVEN CONTROL DIAL:

This is easy to use too!

1st Position (top position) for both hotplates OFF.

2nd Position for Normal Mode (ALL Ovens ON).

3rd Position for Full Mode (RH Top Oven ON, Bottom Oven OFF).

4th Position for ECO Mode (RH Top Oven ON @ approx 180c ONLY).

The remaining dials are Temperature Dials for each hotplate and oven. They have markings where the traditional Aga Range Cooker temperatures would be (Roasting, Baking and Simmering).

RH Top Oven: Roasting Maximum Temp.

RH Bottom Oven: Baking Maximum Temp.

LH Bottom Oven: Roasting Maximum Temp.

3 OVEN - ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS

The 3 Oven eControl Conversion System requires a 40amp Cooker Isolation Switch. This needs to be located low-level, to the left (preferred), or the right of the Aga Range Cooker, and within 1m. You can have the isolation switch above worktop height, with a connection box low level or under your cabinet kick-board for the cooker to connect into.

Maximum Electrical Draw of the total system:

230v 50Hz 7.5kW

What is Ceramic Fibre Insulation?

Mon, 03 Oct 2022 19:06:09 GMT

If you've been through our website, you've probably heard us talk about Ceramic Fibre Blanket for your Aga Range Cooker. What is it? and what does it do?

We LOVE this type of insulation when it comes to Aga Range Cookers. It's a much better insulator than the standard Vermiculite and Rockwool combination, and can help you drive down your monthly running costs. We know some installers are weary of using this inside the traditional Aga Cookers but for us, it's just science! The blankets we use have higher insulating properties than vermiculite and rockwool. The blanket helps your Aga Range Cooker retain heat inside the cast iron components (like a sponge!), and as a result, your cooker uses less energy trying to restore heat that is lost through the back and sides.

Before the uptake of Controllable Electric Models of Aga Range Cookers, we were using this blanket inside our 'always on' 13amp Electric models , which are notorious for their high running costs. We use our own specific method of installing the blanket to ensure minimum (unwanted) heat loss, and higher efficiency.

Refractory Ceramic Fibre Blanket (RCF) is typically made from Aluminium Silicate Fibre, spun and woven into blanket form. It has great insulating properties but can be hazardous to your health. If you've ever been in contact with it, you'll probably have seen the warning symbol above. It comes with a carcinogenic warning, meaning that inhalation may lead to fibrosis, lung cancer and other quite nasty stuff.

Quite a number of years ago, we were substituted a box of RCF instead of our normal Body-Soluble blanket. As soon as I saw the warning, I had to read into it more before using it. I spent a whole evening on my laptop, learning about the different types, their chemical makeup, reading health journals and really became quite obsessive about it all.

As a result, we promptly got rid of the box and made sure that we ALWAYS use non-hazardous insulation. We opt for the bio-soluble versions of Ceramic Fibre Blanket, made from calcium and magnesium silicate fibres. The RCF blankets are much cheaper to buy, and can be bought in bulk from overseas, but we don't think it's worth the risk. We'd rather make sure our engineers and your family are safe from any risk of exposure!

This is another reason why you should look to trust your Aga Range Cooker to a reputable company with your safety being a number 1 priority, instead of the profits from a cheaper (riskier) alternative.

If you're looking to utilise this insulation upgrade for your existing Aga Range Cooker, get in touch with us:

Refurbished Aga Cooker in Edinburgh

Mon, 22 Aug 2022 19:28:58 GMT

Steve and Steven (the saltire 'father-and-son duo'), recently had the joy of fitting a beautiful 2 Oven Claret eControl Aga Range Cooker in Edinburgh.

As you can see, it is a STUNNING pop of colour that immediately draws your eye to the heart of the home, the Aga Range Cooker. Luckily for the team, it was one of the rare sunny days in Scotland so they managed to stack all the parts outside to leave space for the other tradespeople. We're used to working alongside other teams during renovation projects and transforming spaces in no time.

The build starts off as normal, with one of our adjustable plinths levelled, and the base plate placed on top. The ovens are built and modified slightly to allow the fittings of the temperature control stats. After that, both ovens are wrapped up before we can continue.

If you've had the opportunity to see one of our eControl conversions, then this 'space-age' contraption won't be new to you.

This is actually your Aga Range Cooker ovens! The same Coalbrookdale Cast Iron Ovens, but tightly wrapped in aerospace-specification insulation. This is what keeps the running costs of the eControl much easier on the purse strings!

You can see the 'tails' of the elements poking through the insulation, ready to be wired up. You have the top 1000w grilling element, the middle 750w element and the bottom 750w element. All working to create a great distribution of heat inside the ovens, without the long heat-up times of the traditional Aga Range Cookers.

Traditionally, the whole left side of the cooker would be filled with a Cast Iron 'ashpit' (where your heat source would sit), covered by a Cast Iron Outer Barrel (to channel the heat upwards), and a couple of Cast Iron ducts and conductions (to move the heat around the cooker). The modern elements and their placement, make these pieces redundant so you end up with a much more efficient Aga Range Cooker.

After the ovens are all snug, the rest of the stats and cables are seated, then the top plate is fitted. The last piece to the puzzle! The two hotplates are constructed and fitted into place, with individual elements underneath each one.

Before we leave, it's a quick tidy up, a loaded van and a demonstration, followed by customer Q&As.

This 2 Oven eControl Series 1 cooker has pride of place in this new kitchen. We hope it'll stay for decades to come and provide all the welcoming warmth and family memories Aga Range Cookers are known for.

If you're interested in your own fully refurbished A ga Range Cooker , just get in touch with us for a chat!

eControl Conversion in the Scottish Highlands

Thu, 14 Jul 2022 09:05:45 GMT

We recently made our way up to Torridon, in the beautiful Scottish Highlands, for an eControl Conversion.

It was an early start for us, with a 4 hour drive ahead. When our work takes us to the beautiful Scottish Highlands, we can't complain too much about early starts! After taking in the sights, we finally arrived at Torridon to complete this eControl Conversion.

This was a 4 Oven Post-1995 Oil Aga Range Cooker, which was costing a lot to run. The frequent servicing, lighting issues and smells were also a deciding factor on choosing the eControl Conversion.

With the eControl conversion, you have the ambient heat option to kick lots of heat out into the room (perfect for this open plan kitchen!). You've also got the option to turn the hotplates on/off individually, and change the oven temperatures to reduce that heat in the warmer months.

The views from the back door were absolutely stunning. Of course, I took the time to soak it in whilst Steve was doing all the hard work.

The Oil feed was disconnected, along with the oil control box. Then, the top was removed with the internal rockwool insulation. All 400 litres of loose-fill vermiculite was vacuumed out before the Aga Range Cooker was completely dismantled.

Once the cooker was dismantled, the ovens were modified for the eControl Conversion, and the rebuild started. The new hi-tech insulation was seated in place and the cooker was rebuilt, incorporating the new electric elements.

Once the eControl Conversion was all in place, the top plate was reseated and fixed into place. You can see the sleek eControl panel with the two easy-to-use dials for the hotplates and ovens.

The thermometer is now redundant, so it is replaced with a sleep eControl branded plate. The customer asked to keep their existing black flue pipe for aesthetics and to assist with the extraction of cooking smells from the ovens.

Once the eControl Aga Range Cooker was cabled into the 32amp supply, it was ready to go!

Aga Cooker Refurbishment in Glasgow

Thu, 14 Jul 2022 07:50:53 GMT

Steve recently visited Johnstone, near Glasgow, to carry out a Top and Lid Replacement.

This customer wanted a new look for their Aga Range Cooker, without the cost of a total refurbishment. Their Post-1974 Aga Range Cooker had been a workhorse for quite a while and was showing some battle scars - particularly on the black enamel top plate and lids.

We sent some of our top plates and lids to our enamel factory to be enamelled in Black. They came back to our workshop and we prepared them, by building the new chrome lids, attaching the new towel rail to the top plate and packing the new fixings. Over time, we've learned that this is best, non-invasive, way of refurbishing Aga Range Cookers. You can still use your cooker up until the day before we arrive, saving you the disruption of weeks without your kitchen companion!

Steve arrived early in the morning and got straight to work. The old top plate was removed, along with the old rockwool insulation underneath.

The loose-fill vermiculite inside the Aga Range Cooker needed to be topped up (as expected in older models of Aga Range Cookers), then our new, high-performance ceramic blanket was placed on top to help efficiency.

The new shiny chrome lids were attached to the black enamel top plate and seated on top of the ceramic blanket. It was all secured into place and polished to reveal the showroom finish!

We think you'll agree that the new top and lids mades a HUGE difference to the look of the Aga Range Cooker! This is the easiest and quickest way to refresh your range. You can take a look at our Refurbishment Options for your own Aga Range Cooker and Book Your Own top and lids refurb.

Questions to Ask Your Refurbisher

Tue, 28 Jun 2022 11:48:22 GMT

Buying your Refurbished Aga Cooker can be an exciting time but you may be nervous about the investment needed.

As much as we would love to help every potential customer with supplying their aga cooker, we are aware that we aren't for everyone!

For geographical reasons, you might choose another supplier but we're here to help you the best we can.

We've put together a list of 10 potential questions to ask your aga cooker supplier to ensure that you're getting the very best service possible.

Are they an established, trusted limited company, or a solo engineer?
it's important to know and trust who you're dealing with.
Are they a corporate entity, a small family company or a solo engineer?
Do they have valid business insurance?
Liability and insurance is a must.
Do they know about the conversions and products they sell?
Ask about the different models they supply and the features of each.
Are they selling you a product with their profit in mind, or your best interests? You'll know by your gut instinct.
Ask for pros and cons.
Do they provide you with any warranties or guarantees?
Do they provide a warranty with their services?
How long is the warranty period?
Ask for copies and inclusions to cover yourself.
Will they re-enamel the front and top plate of your Aga Cooker to order?
A newly enamelled front, doors and top, ensures a flawless, showroom finish.
Do they just clean the old enamel, or is it fully re-enamelled, bespoke for each customer order?
What is included in the price?
Ask for the total price so that you know what you're actually paying.
Include any VAT, Delivery, Installation and Plinth.
Do they install their own cookers or will you be left to source your own installation engineer?
If the install engineer is a subcontractor - who has liability and responsibility if things go wrong?
The last thing you need, is to be stuck in-between engineer disputes if something happens.
If they install their own cookers, are they sufficiently trained? Gas Safe, OFTEC registration etc.
Will they bring dust sheets and floor coverings for installation or refurbishment works?
Leaving your home clean and tidy should be a high priority.
Do they offer a personalised service, with additional options for you?
An aga cooker is an investment - if you'd like bespoke options to make it your own, just ask your supplier.
A choice of badges, finishings, lid sizes, additional refurbishment options should be standard.
Will you get documentation with your refurbished Aga range cooker?
A welcome guide, user guide etc will be beneficial when getting used to your 'new' Aga Cooker!

The End of Traditional Aga Cookers

Sun, 23 Jan 2022 09:26:14 GMT

AGA Rangemaster will no longer manufacture Traditional 'always on' Aga Range Cookers.

AGA Rangemaster renamed their traditional 'always on' Aga range Cookers to 'R5' during a product line rebrand a couple years ago. The R stood for 'Radiant Heat' since they provided plenty of warmth from their constant 24/7 operation. Since the rebrand, more products have been added to their catalogue, boasting induction hobs, large steel ovens, infrared grill and even conventional fan ovens. There is definitely a market for this type of cooker, judging by the success of other conventional Range Cooker manufacturers, we are just very dedicated to the traditional range.

As of January 2022, the traditional, "always on" models of Aga Cooker (OC, GC, GE) will no longer be manufactured. This is alongside the discontinuation of all Gas and Oil models of Aga Cookers.

The Aga always been known for its radiant heat, cast iron ovens and the practicality of no heat up times. As times have progressed, there has been a need for slight improvements for modern day living - for example, our controllable ElectricKit Conversions , which maintains your much-loved Aga but adds the functionality of turning individual ovens and hot plates off and on when needed.

Although we love these new controllable Aga range cookers, we respect how much the traditional models have solidified its place in British History. There's still a demand for oil and gas models in locations where a completely electric version just wouldn't suffice. We often install 'R5' models across rural Scotland and over on the many remote Islands, where power cuts can be frequent and long.

We have no plans to stop refurbishing these models (unless the government steps in re: Oil and Gas supply!), so you can still expect the authentic experience without compromising.

Take a look at our Oil and Gas models , along with our 'always on' 13amp model .

Beginners Guide to an Aga Cooker

Mon, 25 Oct 2021 18:52:47 GMT

The Aga cooker is an incredible piece of engineering and can seem daunting for those new to its charm. Have no fear - here's a beginners guide to help.

The below info is an extract from one of our own, comprehensive user guides that we supply alongside our fully refurbished aga cookers.

WHICH OVENS ARE WHICH?!

One of the basics you need to know first - which oven is which!

Unlike conventional cookers, each aga cooker oven has a set temperature. The traditional models of aga cooker are designed to be on, up to temperature, and ready to use 24/7. Controllable on/off models are much more flexible, giving you individual temperature control in each oven and hotplate.

On traditional models, you can vary the temperature inside each oven by moving your dishes to different parts of the oven, or using a cold plain shelf to delfect heat (it'll make sense soon, we promise!).

TRADITIONAL MODEL BASICS

Our Oil , Gas and 13amp models are always on and ready to use. They use conduction and convection to move heat around the huge cast iron parts. The heat is stored inside these castings (including the ovens and hotplates) and any food inside the ovens is cooked using the radiant heat. This is why people say that food cooked inside an aga range cooker, just tastes better. That's because, instead of fans or hot elements blasting the food and drying out the flavour, the moisture is contained within the food.

Here, you can see an aga cooker with all of the loose-fill vermiculite insulation hoovered out, and the front/top removed. The heat will move from your ashpit (bottom left), up through the outer barrel (above the ashpit), then across to the top oven and down to the bottom oven.

Your Aga cooker is thermostatically controlled so once it's tuned to the right setting, theres no need to adjust each time you cook - it's always ready! During the install, we insulate every crevice of the cooker to make sure the majority of the heat stays inside the cooker. The heat that is emitted from the front and top of the cooker will give your kitchen a lovely welcoming warmth all year round.

As your model is always on, it's very efficient at replacing other household appliances you have. You can invest in a stove-top kettle to replace your electric one. Your toaster is redundant since you can make the famous toast your cooker is known for. You can even use the ambient heat to dry your clothes and save running a tumble dryer.

There are lots of tips and tricks for using your Aga range cooker - that's why it's a 'way of life', not just a cooker.

An important note to understand, is that during big spells of cooking (Christmas etc) or times where the lids will be open for a while, the heat inside the ovens will drop. This is due to the way the Aga conducts and distributes heats from a single heat source. Timing and organisation will help for big meals!

FINDING YOUR CORRECT OPERATING TEMPERATURE

Getting exact temperatures of your aga cooker ovens is tricky because of the radiant heat that they use, rather than conventional fan ovens. The temperatures will differ depending on where you place your food in the oven. This is why you can grill at the top of the roasting oven, roast in the middle and fry at the bottom.

The thermometer (heat indicator) on the front plate of your aga cooker, shows the operating temperature of the whole cooker - it's not an oven thermometer. The best way you can make sure your cooker is running at the optimal temperature, is to take readings from the heat indicator first thing in the morning, before cooking, over the course of three days. If you need to adjust, use slight movements and wait overnight before taking another reading.

When you cook on your aga cooker, the thermometer readings will fluctuate over the course of the day as the heat is absorbed into the food and into the room.

You can use a manual oven thermometer that hangs directly in the middle of the grill shelf to get a rough oven temperature.

Your ovens use ambient heat to cook food, rather than direct heat - that's why specific temperatures aren't possible. We'll give you a guide on approximate temperatures for each oven below.

Once your thermometer has reached a position inside the Normal Zone (Silver), your Aga range cooker has reached it's optimal temperature and your ovens should be in their respective temperature zones. Once your controls are set, they shouldn't be adjusted. Your model is designed to be on 24/7 and always up to temperature, ready to use. If you turn it off and let it go cold, it will take around 7 hours to reach full temperature again.

Traditional Aga Cooker Temperatures:

Each aga cooker is different and temperatures will fluctuate but you can use the below approximations as a guide.

Remember, with traditional aga cookers, the oven temperature will drop if you use the hotplates at the same time. Our controllable models won't have this problem.

Roasting Oven: 220-240c

Baking Oven: 170-190c

Simmering Oven: 120-140c

Warming Oven: 60-70c

Boiling Hotplate: 300-340c

Simmering Hotplate: 200-240c

THE 80/20 RULE OF COOKING

The golden rule of cooking is to cook 80% in the ovens and 20% using the hotplates.

Cooking in this way is much more efficient. Every time you lift your hotplate cover, the heat rapidly dissipates and starts removing heat from your ovens too. This is fine for quick dishes, but long periods, like boiling a pot of pasta, would lose lots of heat. That's why many opt to start the boil on the Boiling Hotplate then transfer it into the Roasting or Simmering Oven to continue cooking with the door closed.

If you want to grill dishes, use Runner 1 in the Roasting Oven. In essence, the heat from your burner moves from behind the control door, upwards, along the hotplates from left to right, then down through your ovens. This makes the top of your Roasting Oven the hottest part.

If you want to fry, use the floor of your Roasting Oven. You can even chuck bread on the floor for *very* quick toast!. Pizzas also cook here brilliantly.

We do recommend attending a cookery demonstration with a demonstrator in your area. The cookbooks are great for first-time owners too - we recommend the below books to get started:

The Complete AGA Cookbook by Lucy Young & Mary Berry

The Complete Book of AGA Know-How by Richard Maggs (this is brilliant for lots of tips and tricks!)

You can watch the wonderful Sarah Whitaker explaining the basics in the video below:

Change Your Aga Cooker Lid Liners

Sat, 03 Jul 2021 15:33:05 GMT

If your lid liners are dirty beyond repair or your lid seals are disintegrating and in dire need of replacement, our DIY Lid Refresh is just what you need.

This is a really easy way to freshen up your Aga range cooker and make it look nice and shiny! Pair our lid liners with new rope seals and new insulation and you've got yourself a winner (and less heat loss = lower bills!). You'll need a cold Aga range cooker for this so it's best organised with your next service or a day when you fancy a takeaway.

You'll need:

Something to remove the old seals (we recommend a flat head screw driver)
Clean up for debris (a hoover or clean paint brush to clean the top plate afterwards)
2 x new lid seals
2 x new lid liners
2 x ceramic blanket cutouts
A tube of heat resistant silicone
PPE (Gloves, Dust Mask and Long Sleeved Top)

Step 1

Start by lifting the lids and placing a towel or some cardboard on the hotplates to protect the top from any debris and scratches from tools.

Step 2

Grab your flat head screwdriver and leverage it underneath the old lid seal before it starts to lift. Then gently start pulling it away from the old liner whilst breaking the old seal.

Step 3

Remove the screws that have now been uncovered from beneath the old lid seal. There could be quite a few dotted around the rim of the liner so make sure you get them all. Spray with WD-40 if they are still - be careful not to snap them.

Step 4

Remove the old liner (and 'retaining band' depending on what type you had), then place it aside for recycling. Remove the old insulation from inside the lid.

Step 5

Place the new ceramic fibre insulation inside the lid. You might have to squeeze it in or trim a bit off - this is easily done with a stanley knife or blade.

Step 6

Place the new lid liner into position and use a sharpie etc to mark where the holes are and drill through the liner (if your liner isn't already pre-drilled).

Step 7

Screw the new liner into position then squeeze some heat silicone around the perimeter of the liner, making sure you cover the screws.

Step 8

Place the new lid seal into place (starting with the joint at the bottom of the lid) then gently press into place all the way around. Be careful not to scratch your new liner or chrome domes with the metal mesh.

Now step back and admire your handy work!

The silicone should be dry in about an hour and once your Aga range cooker heats back up, you might notice some funny smells but it's normal and will quickly dissipate.

We'd love to see your new refreshed lids so please post a photo on our facebook page or tag us!

Electric Aga Cooker Conversions

Sun, 06 Jun 2021 20:21:14 GMT

Our Electric Aga Cooker Conversions are a quick and easy way to update your Aga Cooker to a modern, electric version of the kitchen classic.

If you're looking for alternatives to oil, gas or LPG when it comes to your Aga range Cooker, you should consider converting your current aga to electric!

By converting your aga range cooker to electric, you can benefit from:

No fossil fuels
No expensive servicing required
Room venting option for flexible positioning
No problems with lighting in strong weather
No gas or oil smells
No carbon monoxide
Potentially lower running costs
Standard household socket required
Thermal Ceramic Fibre Insulation blanket to further reduce running costs

We can currently convert the following types of Aga Range Cookers:

Post-1974 model
Pre-1974 model
Deluxe Solid Fuel
Standard Solid Fuel
2 or 4 oven models
3 oven models

13AMP 'ALWAYS ON' MODEL:

This conversion is our most popular. It retains everything you love about the aga, and pairs it with a standard electrical socket (as well as all of the benefits above!). The 13amp Conversion utilises the traditional design of the convection and conduction of heat that the british aga range cooker is known for. As the name suggests, a 13amp fused spur socket is required to run the electric element placed inside the burner.

Once the burner has been replaced, ducting is added to improve convection and regulate heat. The outer barrel and ovens are then wrapped with thermal ceramic fibre insulating blanket to retain stored heat and reduce running costs. The vermiculite is filled and the controls are upgraded. Before the top plate is re-seated, the flue is configured and a full width of ceramic fibre blanket is placed underneath to further reduce running costs. You will still retain the ambient warmth from the two hot plates that are on 24/7, and the heat from the ovens/front plate.

There you have it! Your original aga range cooker that you know and love, just improved and more earth-positive.

Learn more about our 13amp Electric Conversion here: https://www.saltirecookers.com/13amp-aga

ELECTRICKIT CONVERSION:

The Electrickit conversion is the most popular on the market. The manufacturers started producing ElectricKit Systems in 2003 and have adapted them for modern wants/needs.

The ElectricKit Advanced has a full touchscreen display, induction hob upgrades, built-in automatic scheduling and larger hotplates. Unrivalled in reliability and ease of use, this system is perfect for traditional aga owners looking to go green whilst reducing their running costs. The ElectricKit undergoes tough testing before release, and has simple electrics inside to reduce the risk of repairs needed from the constant heat.

The ElectricKit is an amazing feat of engineering, utilising 5 (or 6) electrical elements, strategically placed in-between the ovens, inside the hot plates and even inside the warming cupboard on 4 oven models. The hotplates can be left on at boiling temperatures (230c) if needed - although we recommend limiting them to simmering or turning them off for efficiency.

Due to the positioning and internal electrical components, your aga range cooker will need to be fully rebuilt to carry out the conversion. All of the vermiculite is made redundant and therefore removed from the cooker. The cast iron ashpit and outer barrel are no longer required and also removed from the cooker. The top oven is removed and prepared for the ElectricKit conversion. The heating elements are placed around the ovens and then a high-density Ceramic Fibre Insulating blanket is wrapped around the ovens to retain the heat. The electrics are installed and connected, along with the control panel. The two hot plates are swapped with specially made hot plates with heating elements incorporated inside. The ElectricKit conversion is complete and the aga range cooker is re-assembled!

You're left with your original aga range cooker , plus independently controllable hot plates, ovens and warming cupboard.

Learn more about our ElectricKit Conversion here.

ECONTROL CONVERSION:

The eControl conversion is the newer conversion on the market (first released in 2021). The main advantage of the eControl kit is the technology inside.

Where the ElectricKit limits tech inside the control box, the eControl Series x-squared has computerised boards (PCBs) inside, packed full of features. Paired with its external control panels, integrated wifi control and high-power elements, the eControl is a great for tech-heat.

Running from 1 x 32amp supply, the eControl can be fitted with a timer to automatically turn the supply on/off. To ensure an even distribution of heat, the eControl uses 3 elements for the ovens (plus 1 additional element for the 4 oven models and 2 additional elements for 3 oven models), as well as 2 integrated elements inside the hotplates. The hotplates need to be turned off, or down to ECO mode (which engages both hotplates at 200c) when the lids are closed.

As with the ElectricKit conversion, your Aga Range Cooker will need to be completely stripped down and rebuilt as an eControl model. You retain your cast iron ovens but utilise elements placed above the Roasting Oven, in-between the Roasting and Simmering Oven, then below the Simmering Oven.

You are left with your original cooker, plus independently controllable hot plates, ovens and warming cupboard (on 4 oven models).

Learn more about our newest eControl Conversion here.

The 4 Oven Aga Cooker

Sun, 30 May 2021 18:15:22 GMT

The Complete Domestic Workhorse.

The 4 oven Aga range cooker is an entertainer's dream. The addition of a warming cupboard to the left hand side, contains the Simmering Oven and an additional Warming Oven - perfect for keeping meals warm or plates ready for serving. As with the 3 oven model, you have a baking oven which is now located at the bottom right.

The Roasting Oven is still the highest temperature oven and is located at the top right of the front plate. Each of the RH ovens have the dimensions W:349mm x H:254mm x D:495mm. The total 4 oven dimensions (without plinths or clearances) are W: 1487mm x H: 851mm x D: 679mm. See our install guide for clearances etc.

The 4 Oven Aga range cooker is basically a 2 Oven model, with an additional 'hotcupboard' on the left hand side. The bottom Right Hand oven, which is typically a Simmering Oven on the 2 Oven model, has increased temperature and becomes a Baking Oven. The hotcupboard section is made from fabricated steel and provides a Simmering Oven, Warming Oven and Warming Plate.

Your Boiling Plate at optimum temperature will be approximately 315c. Your Simmering Plate will be around 100c cooler, at approximately 215c. Some Aga Cookers run slightly hotter or cooler than others - every model is different!

The roasting oven (top right) has an average temperature of between 220c-240c (depending on the shelf position inside the oven) and the simmering oven (top left) sits at 115-140c. The baking oven (bottom right) is around 180c and the warming oven (bottom left) has a temperature of approx 65c. These are average temperates and they will fluctuate depending on your shelf position or door seals/insulation.

In addition to the Warming Oven, you also gain a Warming Plate on top of the Aga range cooker. This is perfect for keeping dishes warm before serving, or keeping the kettle ready to boil for your cuppas. If you're missing your traditional electric/gas hob, you can integrate them into the hot cupboard by removing the warming plate.

The 3 Oven Aga Cooker

Sun, 30 May 2021 17:57:34 GMT

The 'Best of Both Worlds'!

The 3 oven Aga range cooker was released in 2003 and revolutionised Aga cooking. No more faffing with the cold shelf to moderate temperatures without compromising on space. Taking up the same footprint of the 2 oven model, it comes with 3 large ovens. A high-temperature roasting oven, a low temperature simmering oven and a moderate temperature baking oven. Each of these has the dimensions W: 349mm x H: 254mm x D: 495mm.

The roasting oven (top right) has an average temperature of between 220c-240c (depending on the shelf position inside the oven). The simmering oven (bottom right) sits at 140c. The baking oven (bottom left) is around 190c. These are average temperates and they will fluctuate slightly.

The 3 oven also comes with the classic 2 hotplates for pots and pans (boiling on left at around 315c, and simmering on right at about 215c). The control door (top left) houses all of the controls you need for setting the temperature. 3 Oven models are available in Gas, 13amp Electric, Controllable ElectricKit. Aga Rangemaster did release an oil version but it proved to be problematic as the oil line couldn't be gravity fed so it was quickly pulled.

The 3 oven model is extremely popular since it incorporates the size of the 2 oven with the added functionality of the baking oven. These models can be hard to find on the reconditioned market due to their young age and popularity.

The 2 Oven Aga Cooker

Sun, 30 May 2021 17:36:46 GMT

The Day-to-Day Family Favourite

The 2 oven Aga range cooker comes with 2 large ovens, A roasting oven and a simmering oven. Each of these ovens has the dimensions W:349mm x H:254mm x D:495mm.

Each Aga range cooker is cast individually and has their own 'personality' and idiosyncrasies. The joy of owning an Aga range cooker is building a relationship with it, knowing the ins and outs of your cooker and working with it to create amazing memories. Traditional models are designed to be on 24/7 and once set, they generally require no adjustments.

On Traditional Oil, Gas and 13am p models, the roasting oven has an average temperature of between 220c-240c (depending on the shelf position inside the oven) and the simmering oven is around 140c. These are average temperates and they will fluctuate slightly.

On our controllable eControl Cookers , each oven can be turned on or off, as well as manual temperature control for reduced running costs or less ambient heat in the warmer months.

The 2 oven Aga range cooker also comes with 2 hotplates for pots and pans. The two hot plates (traditionally with boiling on the left and simmering on the right) give you enough space for up to 6 pans between them.- ideal for entertaining! Our controllable Aga range cookers allow these temperatures to be adjusted, or turned off completely to save running costs.

The hot spot is your boiling plate and the simmer spot is for simmering! Your Boiling Plate at optimum temperature will be approximately 315c. Your Simmering Plate will be around 100c cooler, at approximately 215c. Some Aga Cookers run slightly hotter or cooler than others - every model is different! The temperatures will drop once your lids are open but the golden rule of Aga Range Cooker Cooking is that 80% of cooking is to be done in the ovens and only 20% on the spots. Each of them are big enough to fit 3 average sized saucepans so you'll have all your bases covered for big feeds!

Have a look at our blog for more information on using each oven, hotplate or energy saving tips.

To give you a better idea of how traditional Aga Range Cookers work, watch the video below.

(source: AGA Rangemaster / Youtube)

Aga Cooker Enamel Colours

Sun, 30 May 2021 17:29:40 GMT

We work with industry professionals to coat your cooker in the same high quality vitreous enamel that has been used on Aga Range Cookers for 100 years.

We can supply your cooker in a range of over 50 different colours and even offer a bespoke colour match service.

The front and top plate are completely shot blasted to remove the old enamel then fresh coats are applied and the cast iron is fired inside industrial kilns at over 800c to harden and set. Once the coats have completely cured, the cooker is ready for a lifetime of service!

We've hand-picked some of our favourite finishes, and even created a few of our own unique colours - inspired by Scotland of course!

All of our Restored Aga Cookers come with black side panels included. Colour-matched side panels may be available on request. These colour-matched sides will differ slightly from the enamelled front, as the side panels are made from steel, rather than enamel.

Our colour board is unique to us - other companies might have different colours and names.

The History of the Aga Range Cooker

Sat, 29 May 2021 19:41:42 GMT

What started as a husbands solution for an overwhelmed wife, quickly turned into "The Aga Saga" and the famous cooker made its way into the cosy homes of Great Britain.

The story starts (rather tragically) with Dr Gustav Dalen (pictured) losing his sight during an experiment in his laboratory.

After his accident, he was mostly confined to his home and his wife took on the role of his carer. He could tell that the added pressure was taking its toll on her and wanted to help so he got to work in the only way he knew how - he invented something.

The original Aga range cooker looked quite different than the ones we know and love today but the principles have remained unchanged for decades. The traditional Aga range cooker was designed with the idea of Radiant Heat and Conduction. This allowed the cast iron parts and ovens to manipulate the heat (from solid fuel at the time) to heat the water, cook the food, heat the house and dry the clothes.

Since its invention, the Aga range cooker has evolved numerous times until the modern deluxe models emerged (the ones in the pictures across our site). These cookers keep the classic well-made structure and their 'always on' way of heating your food and your home. The more modern versions have turned to additional electric elements, touchscreens, electrical cabling, and individually controlled hobs/ovens. This is gradually moving towards the conventional cooker setup, rather than the traditional way of working that the Aga was built for and know for across the world.

Aga Range Cooker Facts

The world went crazy for the Aga around the 1930's. So much so, that a new phrase was created: "The Aga Saga".

The wait time for an Aga Range Cooker was 27 weeks! Much longer than we roll them out today.

Going into the 1960's, Oil was introduced and was very well received as a more efficient alternative to solid fuel

Mary Berry has said that her Aga range cooker "makes her want to cook".

After manufacturing the classically British cookers in Shropshire since 1930, the AGA Rangemaster brand was sold to a US company in 2015.

Beginner's Guide to Aga Range Cookers

Sat, 29 May 2021 19:31:55 GMT

If you've had your Aga Range Cooker for long, or spoken to any owner, you'll soon learn that these cast iron beauties have individual personalities. In fact, a lot of customers tend to 'name' their cooker due to its cosy, unique character. For reference, this article will refer to the Traditional "always on" Heat Storage Aga Cookers. The more modern, controllable ElectricKit or eControl models will differ slightly. The newest Aga Cookers available direct from AGA Rangemaster will differ even more, with some having steel ovens, one hotplate etc.

An Introduction to The Aga Cooker

Designed to be always on and ready to use, the Aga Range Cooker uses stored heat inside the cast iron ovens to cook food with radiant heat and trap moisture the moisture and flavours inside. This is why lots of people preach that an Aga Cooker just cooks food better.

Even though your Aga Cooker is built the same as others, it'll have its own way of working. This is one of the advantages of a hand-made, classically forged cooker vs the cookie-cutter laser-cut conventional cookers. They will have idiosyncrasies, especially when it comes to temperature control so it's best to get a hold of an oven thermometer to learn how your new best friend works and how you can use it efficiently.

The Aga Cooker Hotplates

The standard, traditional Aga Cookers will have two circular hotplates on the top. These are made of cast iron, unless you have an electrickit or eControl model, and they have two set temperatures. The left hand hotplate is the Boiling Plate, and the right hand hotplate is the Simmering Plate.

When you're not using the plate, the insulating covers should be put down. A few years ago, we had a customer who was surprised at the running costs of her Aga Cooker. After some investigation, we realised that the kids were opening the hotplate lids to warm their hands before leaving for school, and leaving them open all day!

Every time you lift this insulating lid to cook, heat escapes from the cast iron and will gradually reduce the temperature inside the ovens, since the whole cooker works on heat conduction and convection. The golden rule, is to cook 80% of the time using just the ovens, and the remaining 20% on the hotplates. The floor of the ovens can be used in place of the hotplates, allowing you to close the oven door to retain heat. For example, if you're boiling a pan of potatoes, start them on the Boiling Plate, then once they're boiling, transfer them to the Simmering Oven and close the door. It'll continue to simmer for as long as it's in the oven.

The Aga Cooker Ovens

Your ovens are made from cast iron. This makes them an amazing heat sink and they can store, then radiate heat for hours.

You can see the 'runners' or 'fins' on the side of the oven walls. These are made to hold your grid shelves or trays in different positions. Your Aga Cooker ovens will be hotter towards the top of the oven, and cooler towards the bottom. This is because the heat from your burner behind the control door, moves up, across and down through the ovens.

If you want to grill or crisp dishes, you can position your trays/grid shelf at the top of the Roasting Oven (Top Right Hand Oven). Any recipe written by an Aga Cooker Owner will note the Runner Number to help you. You count these from the top to the bottom.

Due to the way Aga Cookers work, it's tough to get exact temperatures. For guidance, we'll list approximate temperatures here:

Roasting Oven (Top RH Oven):

220-240c

Simmering Oven (Bottom RH Oven on 2/3 Oven Models):

120-140c

Baking Oven (Bottom RH Oven on 4 Oven Models, Bottom LH Oven on 3 Oven Models):

180-200c.

A good rule of thumb is "if it takes more than 15 minutes on the hot spot, it can go into the ovens". The floor of the Roasting Oven can be used for shallow frying. The floor of the Simmering Oven can be used to keep pans bubbling away (once they've reached boiling temperature from the boiling plates).

The middle of the boiling plate is the hottest point of the Aga range cooker. You can differentiate the temperatures by changing the amount of the pan that is in contact with the plate. Be sure to use both spots! If the boiling plate is too hot, transfer the pan to the simmering plate.

Your order comes with two internal grill shelves and a solid 'cold' shelf. This shelf should be stored outside of the ovens to keep it cool for when it's needed. The cold shelf can be inserted into different positions inside the ovens to deflect heat and reduce the oven temperature. If you have a 2 oven model, you can even make a 'baking oven' inside of the roasting oven using the cold shelf!

The cast iron ovens are almost "self-cleaning". Any food debris is carbonised due to the constant high temperature. To keep your ovens (and hotplates) clean, you can use a wire brush to brush them regularly, just keep the wire brush away from the enamel! Any pots and pans with a completely flat base can be used on the Aga range cooker. The flat base ensures even contact from the hotplates to the pan. If you are moving pans between the hotplates, make sure you lift instead of dragging. Lots of aga range cookers have a very dull, scratched centre of the top plate from pan scuffs.

Learning More

You can learn a bit more on how to use an Aga Cooker, in our other blog post here .

Alternatively, you can book an Aga Cooking Demonstration with a Demonstrator in your local area. Sarah Whitaker gives a brief introduction to the Aga Cooker in this Youtube Video below:

Aga Cooker Flue Options

Fri, 12 Feb 2021 21:29:26 GMT

Depending which Aga Range Cooker you have ordered, your flue may be different or even non-existent!

Our 13amp/ElectricKit cookers are normally room-venting so they can be located anywhere in the kitchen, as long as the floor can support it.

Our oil cookers need to be vented into either an existing lined (to reduce condensation and improve updraft) chimney stack or a pre-fabricated twin-walled metal flue (if you don't have a chimney). The height of the flue pipe generates updraught. You can incorporate bends but this will reduce the updraught. This conventional flue is black flue pipe (4" diameter), that runs from the top plate, up the wall then into the chimney or pre-fab twin wall system. Oil flue pipes must be 5m minimum length.

Our gas cookers can be installed with either a conventional flue (3m minimum length) as above, or as a power or balanced flue. Powered flue comes with a fan integrated into the top plate. This is consistently running from a power supply and gives off a gentle hum (similar to a refrigerator!). The fan is controlled by two sensors in the flue way which shut off the cooker if the fan fails. This is to stop any carbon monoxide re-entering the room. The fumes are pushed out of the flue to the outside, through a 54mm pipe. The flue pipe can run up to 6m but this can be restricted depending on the routing or how many bends it has. A balanced flue comes straight out the back of the cooker horizontally, through an external wall to the outside. This has a limit of 600m from the back of the cooker can be temperamental depending on the wind conditions (not recommended for windy gardens!).

Conventional Flues (oil and gas) can be installed vertically into an existing chimney with no bends more than 45 degrees from vertical. You can also choose a twin-walled system if there is no existing chimney. The twin-walled system is basically a metal pipe, strapped to the outside of the exterior wall, stretching to 600mm clearance of the main house and any other obstructions.

The flue must have a minimum vertical length of 3m for gas and 5m for oil. This minimum may need to be longer if there are bends in the system to assist with up-draught.

Features of the Aga Cooker

Fri, 12 Feb 2021 20:02:21 GMT

If you're new to the Age Range Cooker world, choosing between a 2, 3 or 4 oven model can be difficult. Lets help you to narrow down the choices!

Every Aga cooker will have a Roasting Oven and a Simmering Oven. These are the basics you need for Aga range cooking (as well as the boiling and simmering plate on top!). Each oven is set at a constant running temperature (for the traditional 'always on' models) but you can vary the temperatures by placing food on different runner tracks inside the oven, as well as using the cold shelf to deflect heat and reduce temperature.

2 Oven Aga Range Cooker

Boiling Plate
Simmering Plate
Roasting Oven
Simmering Oven

3 Oven Aga Range Cooker

Boiling Plate
Simmering Plate
Roasting Oven
Simmering Oven
Baking Oven

4 Oven Aga Range Cooker

Boiling Plate
Simmering Plate
Roasting Oven
Simmering Oven
Baking Oven
Warming Oven
Warming Plate

The 2 oven model is everything you need for Aga range cooking. The roasting oven temperature can be manipulated with the cold shelf to create a lower temperature baking oven for cakes etc. If you're a modern day Mary Berry, the 3 oven model with the dedicated baking oven may be the one for you. This is a relatively newer type of the traditional range so they're rare in our workshop and as soon as they come in, there's usually an order ready to snap it up! The 4 oven is perfect for the entertainers, if you have the space. You still have the baking oven of the 3 oven model but gain a warming oven and a warming plate to keep dishes at that "ready to serve" temperature. The bigger 4 oven frame also gives off slightly more heat to the room. Your warming plate is perfect for toasting up the guests plates ready for your food. We've also had farmers re-purpose the warming oven for incubating sick lambs or hatching chicks!! A true work horse.

Aga Cooker Dimensions

Fri, 12 Feb 2021 17:36:15 GMT

If you're designing a new kitchen or planning an Aga Range cooker for your current setup, the first step is measuring up to make sure you have the space!

Clearance Requirements

There should be a 3mm gap either side of the Aga Range cooker and a 10mm gap behind to allow airflow, prevent scorching and to ensure safe removal of the top plate if needed at a later date. Please ensure that you have clearance for the opening position of the doors and the lids when they are in the raised position. Height of the cooker with the lids open is 1330mm. The oven doors need a minimum clearance of 116mm to open (we recommend 150mm at least).

If your cooker is being installed inside a brick recess, add on 10mm each side to allow for variations in the walls and the castings. The wall behind must be of non-combustible material (aka Fireboard etc from a DIY store) for a minimum thickness of 25mm. The hearth/plinth of the cooker needs to consist of non-combustible material for 12mm thickness.

2 & 3 Oven Dimensions

Width: 993mm ( including a required 3mm gap each side)

Height: 911mm ( including a 60mm plinth to the hob top)

Depth: 689mm ( including a required 10mm gap behind)

10mm gap is required behind the cooker for air circulation.

Depth: 689mm ( 766mm including gap and hand rail)

Door Clearance: 1135mm depth (with doors open, including required gap behind)

Door Clearance: 116mm minimum in front/next to the front plate (for doors opening - see image above)

Height: 851mm (911mm including 60mm plinth)

Lid Clearance: 1390mm height (with lids open, including plinth)

4 Oven Dimensions

Width: 1493mm ( including a required 3mm gap each side)

Height: 911mm ( including a 60mm plinth to the hob top)

Depth: 689mm ( including a required 10mm gap behind)

10mm gap is required behind the cooker for air circulation.

Depth: 689mm ( 766mm including gap and hand rail)

Door Clearance: 1135mm depth (with doors open, including required gap behind)

Door Clearance: 116mm minimum in front/next to the front plate (for doors opening - see image above)

Height: 851mm (911mm including 60mm plinth)

Lid Clearance: 1390mm height (with lids open, including plinth)

What's inside my Aga Cooker?

Tue, 22 Dec 2020 18:59:56 GMT

If you didn't see your Aga Range Cooker getting built, you might be wondering what's inside this big cast iron workhorse.

For the purposes of this post, we'll be talking about the traditional 'always on' Aga range cookers, rather than the newer, more controllable models.

To be honest, the Aga range cooker seems more complex than it is. It's basically a cast iron jigsaw that uses conduction and convection to distribute the heat around the cooker. The 2 oven models come with an 'ash pit' where the heating element sits (oil burner, gas burner or an electric coil element). A cast iron barrel sits on top of this ash pit and conducts the heat through the cast and the air. Ducts channel this up to the top oven first, which is why your top right hand oven is your hottest (roasting) oven. Next, it trickles down to your bottom oven, bringing it up to simmer temperature. While this is happening, the boiling plate that sits directly on top of the barrel gets a huge conduction of heat which is also why it's the hottest hot plate! The simmer plate sits on top of the roasting oven cast conductions, bringing a gentler heat.

All of the cast iron parts in our Refurbished Aga Range Cookers are shot-blasted to remove any impurities and return them to like-new condition.

Once they're restored, we coat the ovens, expansion rings and hot plates to give them a layer of protection.

Once the cast is in place, all of the empty space is filled with Vermiculite!

Vermiculite is a mined mineral that expands when it's heated up. That's why the vermiculite we receive looks like popped popcorn or tiny accordions! This is a great insulator and is commonly used for chimney breasts, stove fires and even for incubating eggs. There's lots of uses but we use it to void fill. It makes sure that you aren't spending time (and money!) heating empty space. Vermiculite is not known to be harmful to humans or animals so it's safe for us to use, albeit a bit dusty sometimes.

For our Fully Refurbished Cookers, the Top Plate, Front Plate, Lid Rings and Doors are all re-enamelled. We use a specialist for this who have been working with Aga Range Cookers for decades. They shotblast the old enamel off then coat them in new Vitreous Enamel (the same type that AGA Rangemaster use), then fire them in a huge kiln to harden and protect. After they are inspected, they are dispatched back up to us for prepping before they're installed.

This process ensures that your enamel is completely scratch and chip free. We also offer 'pre-owned' cookers from time to time. This process is the same with the top plate and lid bands but the front remains original as there is no need to re-enamel. Since there is only the top plate to enamel, these cookers come at a reduced cost.

If you're looking for a fully refurbished cooker , make sure the front plate and top plate are both re-enamelled so that your cooker is pristine and showroom standard!

The finished product is a completed refurbished Aga Range cooker, ready to warm your kitchen and feed your family for years to come!

Refurbished vs New Aga Cookers

Sun, 18 Oct 2020 18:40:34 GMT

Choosing your perfect Aga Range Cooker can be difficult. One of the first choices you need to make is whether you go with a pre-owned, fully reconditioned or new model of cooker.

People decide to invest in an Aga Range Cooker for a whole range (pun intended) of reasons. They may want to relive childhood memories of cooking on an Aga Range Cooker with parents or grandparents. They may miss the comforting warmth of the kitchen on a cold, grey day. They may want to keep the classic design of a traditional kitchen or even urge for the nobility of Aga Range cooker ownership!

There are plenty reasons to buy an Aga range cooker direct from Aga Rangemaster Ltd, just as there are many reasons to buy a fully refurbished one. Hopefully the below will help you to reach your decision!

Brand New Aga Range Cookers.

Established American-Owned company.
Order from experienced sales people and customer support teams.
Processes and adherence to corporate policies and standards.
Subcontracted customer care company (RepairTech)
Newly forged cast iron - from a range of foundries.
Customer care plans available as an add-on sale.
Complex newer models with additional induction hob and conventional fan ovens.

Our Fully Reconditioned Aga Range Cookers

Supporting our small, family-operated businesses in Scotland.
Made and Built in the UK - no overseas imports or suppliers.
One point of contact from order to install.
No commission-driven sales teams.
Save around £7000 vs New
Newly enamelled front/top plates from an industry professional factory.
Greener option - no mining required for new cast iron to be forged.
No country-wide showrooms or factories, allowing a reduced price point.
Warranty included and upheld direct by us and our engineers - no complex outsourcing.

We only reconditioned the classic Heat-Storage Aga range cookers - deluxe or standard models as they are the most requested by you. We know these cookers inside and out and can virtually convert or build them in our sleep (challenge Steve to this, we'd love to see the outcome!). Our refurbished Aga range cookers (with the exception of our ElectricKit and eControl Conversion), operate like a traditional "always on" Aga range cooker.

We hope this narrows down your choices if you are trying to decide between a New Aga range cooker or a Reconditioned one. If you have any questions or need some more information to help you to decide - give us a call! We're happy to help.

Explaining The Electric Aga Cookers

Sat, 03 Oct 2020 20:29:12 GMT

As the years have progressed, AGA Rangemaster have adapted their original cooker to accommodate the modern lifestyle and changing needs. A range of retro-fit third-party conversions can also update traditional older models to controllable electric.

We're independent from AGA Rangemaster, and offer our own fully refurbished aga cookers, with traditional or efficient electric conversion systems inside. We use original british-made cast iron parts of older aga cookers, and refurbish them to incredible standards - many people can't distinguish our models from brand new ones!

What makes a new electric Aga cooker different from Saltire Cookers' Refurbished Aga Cookers ?

New Aga cookers are delivered in one piece. They are manoeuvred into place using dolly trucks etc, then plugged in. Saltire Cookers Refurbished Aga Cookers are all built up on site in the traditional way. We've fitted our aga cookers in townhouse basements, castles, underground war bunkers, remote off-grid manor houses and tenement flats.

They have integrated plinths at a set height. Our refurbished cookers are flexible in height to match different worktops and designs. Our adjustable plinths come in the standard 50mm, 60mm or 80mm heights.

New aga cookers need around 10mm clearance around them, for moving into position. Saltire Cookers' Refurbished Models need just 3mm for slight deviation is castings. Less space for crumbs or utensils to disappear into!

Technicians for new aga cookers carry a laptop for technical diagnostics of computer boards inside the cookers. We only need a well-stocked toolbox. Think of the difference between a new technical Mercedes, and the old faithful land rover defenders.

New aga models can have a mix of ovens - some metal, some cast iron and some conventional fan ovens. If you want a traditional Aga cooker, seek out cast iron radiant heat ovens (like the ones that can be found in our traditional British-made, refurbished models).

Death by choice. There are lots of options for new aga cookers - eR3, eR7, eR7i, ERA, R3, R7, phew. Saltire Cookers models come in 13amp, controllable electric, oil or gas. Simple.

The 13amp Electric Aga Cooker

This model is no longer produced and is only available as a refurbished model. It uses a single large electric element in place of the traditional oil or gas burner, requiring a single household socket switch. This system is perfect for the traditional aga cooker 'feel', and emits loads of ambient heat into the room, is always on and ready to use, but can be quite expensive to run.

They will consume around 225kW of energy per week, which (in Jan 2025) will cost around £60 per week.

The basic 13amp system has one thermostat and one control dial. More complex systems have computerised boards inside for remote controls but these fail frequently and are very expensive to replace.

The 30amp Electric Aga Cooker

This is the hottest of all the aga cookers. No longer produced, it works by pulling an electric charge overnight (using a lower-cost economy 7 tariff), and stores this heat using fire bricks inside. It then releases this stored heat over the course of the day. We do not stock or refurbish 30amp models due to issues with their control boards, fans and other consumable parts.

Flexible Electric Models

These modern versions of the famous cooker are more flexible by incorporating separate elements into the build. You can choose to have all ovens and hotplates on, or switch them off and use them as and when needed.

Individual electric elements are placed around the cast iron parts (ovens and hotplates) to provide flexibility. These can be operated by the control panel.

eR7 (based on the older Total Control)

These models come with a touchscreen panel (very modern!) to allow independent control of the elements. You can control each oven with pre-set temperature settings.

eR3

The least similar to a traditional Aga Cooker. One chrome lid, square induction hob, metal ovens, conventional grill, main ovens on the left, aga badge on the right - a purist's nightmare! BUT, a very modern aga cooker.

eR7

Similar to the older Total Control, with the iconic AGA look (although an induction version with one chrome lid is available). Designed to be flexible. Limited to pre-set temperature settings (R1, R2, B1, B2 etc). Cast iron ovens.

Designed to be always on with lots of ambient heat into the room, it's most similar to the original 13amp aga cookers, but with on/off hotplate controls. Running costs can be higher due to the always on design and the lack of complete flexible temperature control.

Similar to the older Dual Control. Our favourite out of all the brand new aga models. The traditional aga look, simple controls, cast iron ovens. The hobs can be controlled separately from the ovens but the ovens are controlled together (aka, either off or on). Customers have chosen the Dual Control in the past for the slumber mode which allows the Aga Range to be brought up to temperature faster than normal.

ElectricKit

This is the most-loved conversion system for traditional aga cookers. Made by an independent company (not AGA), it essentially turns the insides of the AGA into an EverHot, but with cast iron ovens! Slumber modes, full temperature control, touchscreen controls, induction upgrades are all modern features, but you have the traditional aga look, original cast iron 'British made' ovens, and you can run it 24/7 if preferred.

We currently choose not to take the newer eR and R models into our workshop. Refurbishing these models tends to consist of minimal re-enamelling without refurbishing the electric systems inside. We do a better job upgrading the traditional 'British made' models to their original spec oil, gas and 13amp electric, or installed with our efficient ElectricKit Conversion.

The Saltire Blog

5 Oven Aga Cooker (with ElectricKit Advanced!)

Recently, we added the 5 Oven version of the ElectricKit Advanced to our range.

ElectricKit Aga Conversion

Come with us to convert this 2 Oven Oil Aga Cooker to our controllable "ElectricKit Advanced" System!

Aga Door Stuck or Not Closing Properly?

If your Aga Cooker doors have started sticking, or letting steam out of your ovens, they may need a little adjustment.

Yellow Flame on your Oil Aga?

If your Oil Aga Cooker has a yellow flame, or is sooting up, it needs some intervention.

Plinths for Aga Cookers

All of the information, sizes and advice for Aga Cooker Plinths

When do you need a plinth?

What sizes of plinths are available?

How do I choose my plinth size?

What do Aga Cooker plinths look like?

Can I build my own plinth?

Aga Cookers and Asbestos

We've been restoring Aga Cookers for decades and frequenty come across the question "Does My Aga Cooker Contain Asbestos?".

Diatomaceous Powder Insulation

Vermiculite Insulation

How to light your Gas Aga Cooker

Looking for Lighting Instructions for Gas Aga Cookers? Just follow the steps below.

How to Light Maxitrol Gas Valves

How to Light Eurosit Gas Valves

Levelling the ElectricKit Hotplates

Over time, the older style of ElectricKit Hotplate can become uneven with use of heavy pans or movement. Here's how to fix it yourself (and save a call out fee!).

Esse not heating up?

If your Esse Cooker has stopped heating up, or displays lots of red lights, here's the solution.

ElectricKit Timer Advice

ElectricKit Hotplate Not Working?

If one or both of your 'ElectricKit Conversion' hotplates stop working, we'll help you troubleshoot and find solutions.

eControl Hotplate Not Working?

If one or both of your 'eControl Conversion' hotplates stop working, we'll help you troubleshoot and find possible solutions.

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eControl Hotplate Overheat Reset ﻿

What Are The Esse PRO Cookers?

Esse's new launch day featured the brilliant PRO series.

Aga Hot Water Boilers

Looking to heat your hot water with your Aga Cooker? Keep reading!

Things to consider with Aga Hot Water Boilers:

Removing your existing Aga Cooker Boiler?

Prepping your water system for an Aga Cooker Boiler:

In Summary:

eControl Pre-Install Guide

1. Fuel Disconnection

2. Electric Requirements

3. Electric Positioning

4. Site Preperations

5. Life After Installation

Aga Cooker Running Costs

How Much Does it Cost to Run an Aga Cooker?

How Much Does an Aga Cost to Run?

Weekly Aga Running Costs:

ElectricKit Pre-Install Guide

1. Fuel Disconnection

2. Electric Requirements

3. Electric Positioning

4. Site Preperations

5. Life After Installation

Connect your Aga Cooker to the ElectricKit App

The ElectricKit External Screen

Aga Badge Melted?

How To Set The Esse Timer

Wondering how to set the automatic timer on your Esse Cooker? Keep reading!

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What Happened to Blake and Bull?

The Aga Cooker refurbishing market has changed drastically.

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2024 Aga Cooker Reporting!

Aga Cooker Conversions

Aga Cooker Sizes

Aga Cooker Fuel Systems

Aga Oven Temperature Guide

How Hot Should your Aga Cooker be?

How Do You Take Temperature Readings?

How to light an Oil Aga Cooker

Looking for Lighting Instructions for Oil Aga Cookers? Just follow the steps below.

Oil Aga Lighting Instructions:

A Refurbished Aga on a Loch

A first for us in Scotland - delivering and installing an aga cooker, on a very remote site, across a loch ��������������

eControl Hotplate Overheat Reset

A first for us in Scotland - delivering and installing an aga cooker, on a very remote site, across a loch ��