Esse not heating up?

If your Esse Cooker has stopped heating up, or displays lots of red lights, here's the solution.

If your ESSE Range Cooker isn't heating up, there are a few simple checks to carry out first:

1. Is the cooker switched on at the plug(s)?

If your plug sockets are located inside cabinets or at the back of a drawer unit, it's worth checking that they haven't been knocked into the OFF position with pans or appliances etc.

2. Is your ESSE on at the fuse board?

If your supply to the cooker plugs has tripped, they won't be supplying power to the sockets. Check that the circuit is switched on at your home fuse board. If it has tripped (turned itself off), you'll need to check WHY it tripped in the first place. Turn all your dials to 0 and switch it back on. Turn each one on/off to find any problematic 'zones' of the cooker, causing the fuse board to trip.

3. Do you have all solid red lights on your ESSE control panel?

This indicates a power failure. If you've had a power cut (even a short one), your ESSE might need a quick reset to knock it back into life. If all the dials have red lights on, turn them all to 0, and your main top oven past the little min button (you'll need to depress it, then turn the dial anti-clockwise, so that it's lower than MIN). One they're all off, turn them back on and you should start to feel heat after a few minutes.

4. Did you turn all areas of your cooker on at the same time?

The ESSE has power-share technology which gives each area the full 3kW of power (the max for a UK plug). This is great for faster heat up times when using an area of the cooker, but if more elements are calling for power, it cooker will 'cycle' through the areas. This lower power consumption also means slower heat up times when everything is turned on at one (since there's a limited amount of electric it can draw at any one time). From cold, your hotplates will heat in around 30 minutes, and your ovens in around an hour.

If you're still having issues after trying the above, reach out to the ESSE Technical Team:

01282 813235
enquiries@esse.com

About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with transparency and information in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to advise and share knowledge passed throughout the generations.


His absolute favourite part of the job is meeting all of the dogs.


About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with longevity in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to last throughout the generations. His favourite part of the job is meeting the dogs, seeing a good before/after and hearing great feedback.

Some Further Reading:


by Steven Johnson 22 February 2026
Our black steel plinths are available to add onto your cooker order if required. They add additional height to the overall Aga dimensions and are available in multiple heights to suit your kitchen design. Traditionally, these British-made Aga Cookers were 851mm from the base to the top of the black enamelled surface. When do you need a plinth? If your worktop or ideal working height is taller than 851mm and you want your Aga Cooker to match them, you'll need a plinth underneath. Brand new Aga Cookers (as well as our ESSE and Everhot cookers) have a fixed height plinth built into the cooker body. If you need these raised higher, you'll need to lay marine-grade plywood or concrete at the required height before installation. What sizes of plinths are available? Our plinths are available in 50mm to 80mm sizes. They also allow for levelling of the base before the assembly of the cooker begins. How do I choose my plinth size? When choosing your required height, you should consider your finished floor height vs your worktop height. It's standard for Aga Cookers to finish slightly proud of the worktop, since the top plate is curved rather than a right-angle ( photo shown below ). If you were to finish level with the worktop, you will have a bigger 'valley' in-between, where crumbs and debris love to collect! Usually, the plinth is seated onto the subfloor, with finished flooring/tiles ran up to and around the plinth once the cooker is built. Alternatively, you can either seat the plinth directly onto the finished floor/tiles, as long as they can bare the weight of the cooker, or we can raise the plinth using the adjustment legs, to allow the finished floor to tuck underneath slightly ( photo shown below). If choosing this option, you should bare in mind the supporting feet in each corner of the plinth start at around 20mm from the front of the plinth. This means your flooring could run underneath for a depth of around 20mm if preferred. After the cooker is built, there are NO adjustments in height, without a strip down and rebuild. What do Aga Cooker plinths look like?
by Steven Johnson 30 January 2026
The internal cavities of Aga Cookers have historically been filled with loose-fill insulation. Inside the cooker body, there are lots of pockets and gaps around the cast iron conductions and burner casings etc. The insulation was poured inside after the build was complete, to rid the cooker of air pockets and insulate the cooker body. Diatomaceous Powder Insulation Early models of Aga cooker, like the Standard models made from the 1950's through to the Deluxe 1974 models (and some post-1974 models), would have originally contained Kieselguhr insulation power (or 'Diatomaceous Earth'). You can identify your model here. This is a fine, talc-like insulation, made from crushed up fossils called diatoms. It's satisfying to touch, but VERY messy to work with and instantly becomes thick clay once exposed to water or moisture. The good news is that amorphous diatomaceous earth is non-toxic. As with anything in powder or dust form - minimising exposure is key. You don't want to be breathing in lung-fulls of any dust or powder. If you're working with it, the proper PPE should be used; not just cloth or paper dust masks. Whilst the loose fill insulation may be ok, these models are still the most at risk for any asbestos exposure. AGA used asbestos rope seals inside their cookers for many years. These seals and gaskets are found inside the body of the older models explained above, and also around the lids and doors. Over the lifetime of these cookers, many of these gaskets and rope seals have been replaced for modern (safe) equivalents. AGA have previously reassured engineers and customers that undisturbed, these seals pose little risk and were of 'dust suppressed' or 'tightly woven' formats. Many of them have been exposed to moisture or grease over time which hardens them, meaning they're less friable in nature. They recommend that really old models of cooker are removed in one piece if possible and disposed of professionally.
by Steven Johnson 27 January 2026
If you need to light your gas aga cooker, follow these instructions to get your aga up and running again. We cover both Maxitrol and Eurosit valves with step-by-step lighting instructions.
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