Depending on your chosen system, you have different electrical requirements:

There are no internal fuses inside the conversion systems

• The electric system needs a dedicated supply.
• Electrics must be installed prior to the conversion (no bare wires please!).
• They can be to either the left or right of the cooker.
• The connection point should be low-level, below worktop height.
• Electrical work must be carried out to specification by a qualified electrician.
• The power cable is 6mm (or 10mm) x 3 Core H07RN-F.
• The connection point/switch must allow complete electrical isolation of the cooker by a multi-pole switch.
• The connection point/switch must have a contact separation of at least 3mm on all poles.
• We recommend fitting an RCD to the cooker circuit.
• We can’t support or install any third-party timers purchased.
• Our conversion engineers don’t have the tools to trace cables through walls or inside cavities.

Your cooker has been ‘reborn’!

After installation, we'll give you a thorough run down of the system, how it works and some tips with an opportunity to ask any questions you have. We'll then send you an email summarising the 'quick start' points and a copy of your user guide for future reference.

Your cooker has the same cast iron ovens as the traditional models, but the placement of the electric elements may mean there's a bit of a learning curves ahead. For example, the floor of the roasting oven will be much hotter, and grilling is best done at the top of the bottom oven (closest to the big oven element between the ovens).

Some traditional models run hotter than normal. In these cases, you might find the temperature ranges of the new electric system hotter (or cooler) than other Aga Cookers that you've used in the past. The difference is that you can adjust the hotplate/oven temperatures much more easily than traditional models! Your hotplates can both reach approximately 360c and your roasting oven maximum is 265c - so you shouldn’t have a problem with it being too cool, but it’s worth mentioning.

The hotplates can’t be left on full heat when the lids are closed. On "Classic" systems, the hotplates should be kept at simmering temperature (number 4) or lower when the lids are closed. The thermostats can become stressed when the heat builds up when the lids are closed and fail, leading to an out-of-warranty visit. On "Advanced" kits, the hotplates will automatically reduce down to boiling temperatures if they are accidentally left higher for longer than 3hrs. We recommend keeping these at simmering temperatures to reduce the risks of scorching or overheating. From simmering, the hotplates should heat up to boiling in around 5 minutes (you can close the lids when pre-heating or cooling down after cooking).

The ambient warmth to the room will be reduced compared to traditional 'always on' models. We estimate you will feel at least 40% less heat, but this is due to the ceramic fibre insulating blanket around the ovens etc. The insulation used with the conversion is amazing quality and great for efficiency. Unfortunately, in order to become an efficient, flexible Aga cooker, some reduction in lost heat is to be expected.

There may be some smoke and smells during the ‘burn off’ period. After the conversion is complete, we'll set it to the required Burn Off settings. Once the Aga Cooker is turned on for the first time, the oil on the hotplates will burn off, sealants will cure, and some starch lagging in the insulation blanket will ‘sweat’. This can emit a strong smell and some smoke, but will dissipate after a few hours/overnight. You should also wipe away any condensation drips that form on the front plate asap. Leaving these to dry or sit on the enamel can permanently stain it.

Once the burn off has completed, you can cook to your hearts content. We recommend waiting until smoke and smells stop before using your Aga cooker. We don’t want those sealant smells permeating the food. This can be a few hours after initial firing but in some cases, overnight.

There may be little pieces of vermiculite left after we leave. Especially if it's raining outside. Vermiculite is expanded mineral and can be 'squashed' into the floor if it gets wet. It can be removed with a stiff brush or a mop.