Aga Hot Water Boilers

Looking to heat your hot water with your Aga Cooker? Keep reading!


Aga Cookers were originally designed to heat the ovens and hotplates constantly - kicking out lots of heat into the room.

Eventually, the idea of using this 'always on' heat, to heat water too!

Internal 'AGA' Hot Water Boilers were first installed inside the older 'Standard' or 'Trad' models (photo below).

This simple boiler system was essentially a small copper or cast iron unit, which hugged the main cast iron burner barrel, to use the conductive heat. The water would be gravity-fed, and work its way back to a larger cylinder elsewhere in the house. The system doesn't have a thermostat to regulate the water temperature, and although installing a heat-sink radiator would help, the tap water could still be scorching hot if the water wasn't used quick enough!


Things to consider with Aga Hot Water Boilers:


AGA Rangemaster discontinued the boiler option in 2014, with modern central heating boilers doing a much better (and more efficient) job of providing domestic hot water.


Internal boilers add roughly 30-40% to the normal running costs of an Aga Cooker.


Some owners wrongly assume that the hot water inside their Aga cooker boiler is free, since the cooker is already hot. In reality, the cold water entering the cooker absorbs heat and takes it away from the internal cast iron, meaning the burner needs to work harder to restore it. Modern central heating boilers should always be the first consideration for your domestic hot water.. On average, the Aga could heat a 45 gallon cylinder twice in 24hrs. Household boilers are specifically designed for that purpose.


There is no controllability over the hot water supply.


The thermostats in traditional Aga cookers are located in the top oven. This means that the thermostat doesn't know what the boiler is doing, or is able to regulate the temperature of the water. We've had conversion customers say that their previous models used to make steam come out of the taps! Nowadays, your plumber should fit a 'blending valve' onto the cylinder or at the taps to limit water temp for current regulations. A relief valve should also be fitted to prevent pressure or excessive temperatures building up inside the cylinder.


Aga cookers were never designed to heat hot water (or heat the room!) - that's just a byproduct of their 'always on' operation. On average, the internal boilers can heat a 45 gallon cylinder twice in 24hrs. If you run out, there's no 'boost' option - you just have to wait for the cooker to catchup with demand. If you need to turn your aga cooker off in the warmer months, you'll have no hot water.


Aga Cookers cannot run radiators, only domestic hot water systems.


We've heard people looking to heat their whole home from an Aga cooker boiler, but unfortunately it's not possible. The boilers are small and don't heat sufficiently to provide hot water for radiator systems. You'd be able to run your hot tap water, and store excess inside the larger cylinder, but the maximum output would be a 135 gallon boiler (which are hard to find nowadays). The norm is a 90 gallon boiler for 2 oven models, and a smaller version for 4 oven models. The most output you would hope for would be a heat sink radiator, but you'd likely need to consider a Rayburn model instead. These have much bigger boilers inside and dedicated design for heating a radiator system.


Electric models cannot work with internal hot water boilers.


The newer controllable models of Aga Cookers tend not to have the older design of a cast iron barrel around the burner (aka, the thing that heated boilers in the past). Other electric models just aren't suitable to have a tank of water hidden inside the cooker, where leaks can go unnoticed for quite a while!


Leaks are a possibility.


There are a few versions of boilers used in the past. Original cast iron boilers for 2-oven models, are made from two pieces. The internal surface was coated in vitreous enamel, then sandwiched together with a gasket in between. These are notorious for failing over time and can cause quite a bit of internal rusting to the other cast iron components. Newer boilers were either copper, or welded steel and proved to be much more resilient. Leaks are always going to be a risk with an internal boiler, due to the connections inside the cooker body and/or the seals around the boiler. Usually, leaks aren't evident until you see puddles of water under the cooker! By that time, it's already saturated the internal insulation and requires a partial strip down to replace.


Aga cooker boilers don't last forever.


The most common reason Aga boilers fail, is due to buildup inside the pipes from the water running through them. Overtime, this slows the water flow and can cause issues, leaks or blockages. Swapping the actual boiler is a straight-forward job, but it also involves partly dismantling the cooker, removing all of the sodden insulation and renewing it. 



Removing your existing Aga Cooker Boiler?


If you're decommissioning your internal hot water boiler, it MUST be removed from inside the cooker. The void will be filled in with extra loose-fill insulation (vermiculite) and the holes in the side blanked off.


DO NOT JUST BLANK OFF THE PIPES EXITING THE COOKER! This would create a pressure bomb-like unit inside the cooker. Backfilling it with sand shouldn't be an option either - you'll need an engineer to take the top off your aga cooker and remove the boiler unit from inside.


If you were to cut the boiler pipes and leave them in situ, the hot air would exit the cooker through the old boiler pipes, creating a fire risk. It'll also eventually rust through the side panel through.



Prepping your water system for an Aga Cooker Boiler:


  1. Internal hot water boilers should only be connected to indirect water systems.
  2. The system should be open-vented and not pressurised.
  3. Temperature relief and thermostatic mixing valves should be fitted, to safely limit the temperature of the water.


Any pipe work in the water system should be insulated to protect surrounding and reduce the risk of freezing or heat loss. They should avoid horizontal runs but if unavoidable, they should rise upwards in the direction from the boiler. The 28mm copper flow and return pipes from the cooker should rise continuously from the cooker to the water cylinder, and have a limit of 5.5m. They should be insulated.



In Summary:


Overall, we'd usually strongly advise against hot water boilers inside Aga cookers. Although, in some situations, it's just necessary. For those, we recommend taking note of the potential issues above, and choosing a steel welded boiler with the safety valves and regulations adhered to. Make sure your service engineer checks the boiler for leaks or internal moisture during your routine service, to catch any issues before they escalate.


Please consider running your hot water from your central heating boiler. It'll be much more efficient, safer, cheaper to run and actually controllable!


About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with transparency and information in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to advise and share knowledge passed throughout the generations.


His absolute favourite part of the job is meeting all of the dogs.


About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with longevity in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to last throughout the generations. His favourite part of the job is meeting the dogs, seeing a good before/after and hearing great feedback.

Some Further Reading:


by Steven Johnson 22 February 2026
Our black steel plinths are available to add onto your cooker order if required. They add additional height to the overall Aga dimensions and are available in multiple heights to suit your kitchen design. Traditionally, these British-made Aga Cookers were 851mm from the base to the top of the black enamelled surface. When do you need a plinth? If your worktop or ideal working height is taller than 851mm and you want your Aga Cooker to match them, you'll need a plinth underneath. Brand new Aga Cookers (as well as our ESSE and Everhot cookers) have a fixed height plinth built into the cooker body. If you need these raised higher, you'll need to lay marine-grade plywood or concrete at the required height before installation. What sizes of plinths are available? Our plinths are available in 50mm to 80mm sizes. They also allow for levelling of the base before the assembly of the cooker begins. How do I choose my plinth size? When choosing your required height, you should consider your finished floor height vs your worktop height. It's standard for Aga Cookers to finish slightly proud of the worktop, since the top plate is curved rather than a right-angle ( photo shown below ). If you were to finish level with the worktop, you will have a bigger 'valley' in-between, where crumbs and debris love to collect! Usually, the plinth is seated onto the subfloor, with finished flooring/tiles ran up to and around the plinth once the cooker is built. Alternatively, you can either seat the plinth directly onto the finished floor/tiles, as long as they can bare the weight of the cooker, or we can raise the plinth using the adjustment legs, to allow the finished floor to tuck underneath slightly ( photo shown below). If choosing this option, you should bare in mind the supporting feet in each corner of the plinth start at around 20mm from the front of the plinth. This means your flooring could run underneath for a depth of around 20mm if preferred. After the cooker is built, there are NO adjustments in height, without a strip down and rebuild. What do Aga Cooker plinths look like?
by Steven Johnson 30 January 2026
The internal cavities of Aga Cookers have historically been filled with loose-fill insulation. Inside the cooker body, there are lots of pockets and gaps around the cast iron conductions and burner casings etc. The insulation was poured inside after the build was complete, to rid the cooker of air pockets and insulate the cooker body. Diatomaceous Powder Insulation Early models of Aga cooker, like the Standard models made from the 1950's through to the Deluxe 1974 models (and some post-1974 models), would have originally contained Kieselguhr insulation power (or 'Diatomaceous Earth'). You can identify your model here. This is a fine, talc-like insulation, made from crushed up fossils called diatoms. It's satisfying to touch, but VERY messy to work with and instantly becomes thick clay once exposed to water or moisture. The good news is that amorphous diatomaceous earth is non-toxic. As with anything in powder or dust form - minimising exposure is key. You don't want to be breathing in lung-fulls of any dust or powder. If you're working with it, the proper PPE should be used; not just cloth or paper dust masks. Whilst the loose fill insulation may be ok, these models are still the most at risk for any asbestos exposure. AGA used asbestos rope seals inside their cookers for many years. These seals and gaskets are found inside the body of the older models explained above, and also around the lids and doors. Over the lifetime of these cookers, many of these gaskets and rope seals have been replaced for modern (safe) equivalents. AGA have previously reassured engineers and customers that undisturbed, these seals pose little risk and were of 'dust suppressed' or 'tightly woven' formats. Many of them have been exposed to moisture or grease over time which hardens them, meaning they're less friable in nature. They recommend that really old models of cooker are removed in one piece if possible and disposed of professionally.
by Steven Johnson 27 January 2026
If you need to light your gas aga cooker, follow these instructions to get your aga up and running again. We cover both Maxitrol and Eurosit valves with step-by-step lighting instructions.
Load More Posts...