eControl Hotplate Not Working?

If one or both of your 'eControl Conversion' hotplates stop working, we'll help you troubleshoot and find possible solutions.




First steps would be to identify your conversion system.


We'll show you some photographs below of the different models over the years, and you can identify yours by matching the control panel to your own.


Initial Troubleshooting: 


 

  1. If your Aga Cooker tripped the fuse board when the hotplate stopped working, you’d likely need an element repair by an approved engineer (or you can upgrade to the 'drop in' style design - explained below).

  2. If your cooker didn’t trip the electric supply, you can try the manual hotplate reset process below.

 


Remember to limit your hotplate usage and never keep them on manual model when the lids are closed.

We recommend turning them off and using them as and when required, to prevent any future repairs.


eControl Series 1 ⬆️

eControl Series 2 ⬆️

eControl Series X ⬆️

eControl Series x2 ⬆️

Series 1, 2 and early editions of the Series X system had 'version 1' hotplates. These were assembled onsite during the cooker build, and consisted of the hotplate element and a steel plate on top. This design also used a specific type of overheat thermostats inside. These stats will trip if the hotplates overheat and will require manual resetting from inside the control panel before the hotplate will heat again.


In later Series X and Series x2 systems, the hotplates were changed to a much more robust design, which had the element slightly embedded inside the metal/cast iron plates. This upgrade meant the heat transfer was better, and provided more resilience to user error (forgetting to turn them off after use or when the lids are closed). They also had a different type of overheat thermostat, which engages and resets automatically when the heat reduces.

Steel 'version 1' hotplates ⬆️

These would patina with some permanent blue/purple patches once heated up.

Steel 'drop in' hotplates ⬆️

These had a thin metal 'expansion ring' around the outside.

Cast iron 'drop in' hotplates ⬆️

These are slightly larger, one-piece cast iron plates with no expansion ring.

eControl Hotplate Overheat Reset


STEP 1: ISOLATE THE POWER


Turn your cooker off from the isolation switch and (even better) at the fuse board. The high electrical load can be lethal so you want to double check that there is no power going to the cooker before you start.


STEP 2: REMOVE THE DIALS


If you have the early Series 1 models (two dials on the control screen), you can pull these large dials away from the screen to dislodge them.


For Series 2 and X models, turn the small dials until you see the small socket set screw on the side, that holds them into place. Loosen these using an Allen key and pull to remove.


STEP 3: REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL


The 4 chrome screw caps in each corner should be finger tight. These will spin off and expose the screw underneath. Carefully remove these 4 screws then place the glass screen off to the side.


STEP 4: IDENTIFY AND RESET THE OVERHEAT STAT


As you look at the controls, you’ll see the overheat stats down the left-hand side.

They are identified by small red plastic pins poking out of the metal housing.


On Series 2 and X models, you may need to unscrew the display screens, and gently move them out of the way to expose the overheat thermostats on the left.


The below diagram is for the older Series 1 models, but the Series 2 and X will be similar.


Push the red buttons (very  firmly).  If they have been activated, you’ll hear a satisfying ‘click’ once they’re reset.



Once reset, we recommend limiting your hotplates and turning them on/off whenever needed.


If you need a hotplate element replacement, or would like us to upgrade your hotplates to the newer design, just get in touch with us and we'll assist.

Contact Us

About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with transparency and information in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to advise and share knowledge passed throughout the generations.


His absolute favourite part of the job is meeting all of the dogs.


About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with longevity in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to last throughout the generations. His favourite part of the job is meeting the dogs, seeing a good before/after and hearing great feedback.

Some Further Reading:


by Steven Johnson 22 February 2026
Our black steel plinths are available to add onto your cooker order if required. They add additional height to the overall Aga dimensions and are available in multiple heights to suit your kitchen design. Traditionally, these British-made Aga Cookers were 851mm from the base to the top of the black enamelled surface. When do you need a plinth? If your worktop or ideal working height is taller than 851mm and you want your Aga Cooker to match them, you'll need a plinth underneath. Brand new Aga Cookers (as well as our ESSE and Everhot cookers) have a fixed height plinth built into the cooker body. If you need these raised higher, you'll need to lay marine-grade plywood or concrete at the required height before installation. What sizes of plinths are available? Our plinths are available in 50mm to 80mm sizes. They also allow for levelling of the base before the assembly of the cooker begins. How do I choose my plinth size? When choosing your required height, you should consider your finished floor height vs your worktop height. It's standard for Aga Cookers to finish slightly proud of the worktop, since the top plate is curved rather than a right-angle ( photo shown below ). If you were to finish level with the worktop, you will have a bigger 'valley' in-between, where crumbs and debris love to collect! Usually, the plinth is seated onto the subfloor, with finished flooring/tiles ran up to and around the plinth once the cooker is built. Alternatively, you can either seat the plinth directly onto the finished floor/tiles, as long as they can bare the weight of the cooker, or we can raise the plinth using the adjustment legs, to allow the finished floor to tuck underneath slightly ( photo shown below). If choosing this option, you should bare in mind the supporting feet in each corner of the plinth start at around 20mm from the front of the plinth. This means your flooring could run underneath for a depth of around 20mm if preferred. After the cooker is built, there are NO adjustments in height, without a strip down and rebuild. What do Aga Cooker plinths look like?
by Steven Johnson 30 January 2026
The internal cavities of Aga Cookers have historically been filled with loose-fill insulation. Inside the cooker body, there are lots of pockets and gaps around the cast iron conductions and burner casings etc. The insulation was poured inside after the build was complete, to rid the cooker of air pockets and insulate the cooker body. Diatomaceous Powder Insulation Early models of Aga cooker, like the Standard models made from the 1950's through to the Deluxe 1974 models (and some post-1974 models), would have originally contained Kieselguhr insulation power (or 'Diatomaceous Earth'). You can identify your model here. This is a fine, talc-like insulation, made from crushed up fossils called diatoms. It's satisfying to touch, but VERY messy to work with and instantly becomes thick clay once exposed to water or moisture. The good news is that amorphous diatomaceous earth is non-toxic. As with anything in powder or dust form - minimising exposure is key. You don't want to be breathing in lung-fulls of any dust or powder. If you're working with it, the proper PPE should be used; not just cloth or paper dust masks. Whilst the loose fill insulation may be ok, these models are still the most at risk for any asbestos exposure. AGA used asbestos rope seals inside their cookers for many years. These seals and gaskets are found inside the body of the older models explained above, and also around the lids and doors. Over the lifetime of these cookers, many of these gaskets and rope seals have been replaced for modern (safe) equivalents. AGA have previously reassured engineers and customers that undisturbed, these seals pose little risk and were of 'dust suppressed' or 'tightly woven' formats. Many of them have been exposed to moisture or grease over time which hardens them, meaning they're less friable in nature. They recommend that really old models of cooker are removed in one piece if possible and disposed of professionally.
by Steven Johnson 27 January 2026
If you need to light your gas aga cooker, follow these instructions to get your aga up and running again. We cover both Maxitrol and Eurosit valves with step-by-step lighting instructions.
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