eControl Hotplate Not Working?
If one or both of your 'eControl Conversion' hotplates stop working, we'll help you troubleshoot and find possible solutions.
First steps would be to identify your version of the eControl conversion system.
We'll show you some photographs below of the different models over the years, and you can identify yours by matching the eControl system panel to your own model.
Initial Troubleshooting:
- If your Aga Cooker tripped the fuse board when the hotplate stopped working, you’d likely need an element repair by an approved engineer.
- If your cooker didn’t trip the electric supply, you can try the manual hotplate reset process below.
The eControl hotplate elements can be damaged from prolonged overexposure to high heat - constituting as 'misuse' against supplier guidance. This isn't limited to one time - it's a cumulative effect.
eControl Series 1 ⬆️
eControl Series 2 ⬆️
eControl Series X ⬆️
eControl Series x2 ⬆️
Series 1, 2 and early editions of the Series X system had 'version 1' hotplates. These were assembled onsite during the cooker build, and consisted of the hotplate element and a steel plate on top. This design also used a specific type of overheat thermostats inside. These stats will sometimes trip if the hotplates are accidentally overexposed to high heat. They may require manual resetting before the hotplate can be used.
In later Series X and Series x2 systems, the hotplates were changed to slightly more robust design against accidental overexposure to heat, with the element slightly embedded inside the metal/cast iron plate. They also had a different type of overheat thermostat, which engages and resets automatically when the heat reduces.
Steel 'version 1' hotplates ⬆️
These would patina with some permanent blue/purple patches once heated up.
Steel 'drop in' hotplates ⬆️
These had a thin metal 'expansion ring' around the outside.
Cast iron 'drop in' hotplates ⬆️
These are slightly larger, one-piece cast iron plates with no expansion ring.
eControl Hotplate Overheat Reset
ONLY CARRY OUT THE BELOW REPAIRS IF YOU ARE COMPETENT AND CONFIDENT WORKING WITH HIGH ELECTRIC LOADS.
Please consult your electrician or eControl installer for guidance and a site visit if required.
STEP 1: ISOLATE THE POWER
Turn your cooker off from the isolation switch and (even better) at the fuse board. The high electrical load can be lethal so you want to double check that there is no power going to the cooker before you start. This is important!
STEP 2: REMOVE THE DIALS
If you have the early Series 1 models (two dials on the control screen), you can pull these large dials away from the screen to dislodge them.
For Series 2 and X models, turn the small dials until you see the small socket set screw on the side, that holds them into place. Loosen these using an Allen key and pull to remove.
STEP 3: REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL
The 4 chrome screw caps in each corner should be finger tight. These will spin off and expose the screw underneath. Carefully remove these 4 screws then place the glass screen off to the side.
STEP 4: IDENTIFY AND RESET THE OVERHEAT STAT
As you look at the controls, you’ll see the overheat stats down the left-hand side.
They are identified by small red plastic pins poking out of the metal housing.
On Series 2 and X models, you may need to unscrew the display screens, and gently move them out of the way to expose the overheat thermostats on the left.
The below diagram is for the older Series 1 models, but the Series 2 and X will be similar.
Push the red buttons (very firmly). If they have been activated, you’ll hear a satisfying ‘click’ once they’re reset.
Once reset, we recommend limiting your hotplates and turning them on/off whenever needed.
If you're a Saltire Cookers customer and require a hotplate element replacement, or would like us to upgrade your older style hotplates to a new induction hob, or a retrofit system, just get in touch with us and we'll assist.
Alternatively, you could consider moving to the ElectricKit system - renowned for reliability and it's time in the market.
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