ElectricKit Hotplate Not Working?

If one or both of your 'ElectricKit Conversion' hotplates stop working, we'll help you troubleshoot and find solutions.



First steps would be to identify your conversion system.


We'll show you some photographs below of the different models over the years, and you can identify yours by matching the control panel to your own.


Remember to limit your hotplate temperature when the lids are closed - leaving them at full temperature can damage the components and require out-of-warranty repairs.

ElectricKit Original (Silver Panel) ⬆️

ElectricKit Classic (Black Panel) ⬆️

ElectricKit Advanced (Touchscreen) ⬆️


The hotplates are a 'drop in' cassette design, and have overheat switches on the side of them. If this reaches a certain temperature, it will activate and turn off the hotplate. Once cooled, the overheat switch would need to be reset before the hotplate can switch on again.


If both of your hotplates have stopped working, check the power to the cooker.


Original (and some Classic) models may have one power supply/plug to the hotplates and one for the ovens. In the past, we've seen some switches accidentally knocked off by pots/pans etc inside the cupboard next to switches.


If one of your hotplates is not switching on, try the overheat reset below.


This guide is for the original and classic versions, but the advanced is similar, the only notable difference is the lack of the cast iron expansion ring to remove beforehand!


It may be obvious, but we have to mention that we can't be responsible for any damage you cause to the cooker whilst carrying out the overheat reset below. If you'd prefer, get in touch and we might be able to quote you for an engineer visit.



STEP 1: ISOLATE POWER TO THE COOKER


You'll be working with LIVE connections, so it's important that you turn off the power!


Turn off the power supply (or both fused spurs) that supply the cooker at the wall. If you do not have switches, go to your fuse board and turn off the power supply to the electric ring main that supplies the cooker. Confirm there is no power to the Aga range cooker by observing that there are no lights illuminated on the control panel, or testing with an electric tester.



STEP 2: REMOVE THE EXPANSION RING (if applicable)


The cast iron versions just lift off, as shown below. If you have a chrome version, it will lift out with the whole hotplate when we move onto step 3. Place a thick towel or cardboard etc right next to the hotplate, to prevent any scratches or damage to your enamel top!.



STEP 3: LIFT THE WHOLE HOTPLATE OUT OF THE TOP PLATE RECESS.


You might need a small flat-headed screwdriver to levy under the rim and get a good purchase on it. Be careful not to yank the hotplate out too far, which might dislodge any wires.


STEP 4: IDENTIFY THE OVERHEAT SWITCH AND RESET.


The small white circular switch with two LIVE red wires connected is the overheat. You'll need to push the white button in the middle which should 'click' when reset. Make sure the wires are secure, then carefully reseat the hotplate, with the cables at a 7 o'clock position (using your open lid as the 12 o'clock position).


STEP 5: RESTORE POWER AND TEST.


Once the hotplate is back into position, turn on the power to the cooker and try heating up the hotplate again.


If it's now working, you can use it as normal - just remember to limit the max temperature when the lids are closed. We recommend simmering temperatures.


If it's still not working, give us a call and we'll help!

About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with transparency and information in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to advise and share knowledge passed throughout the generations.


His absolute favourite part of the job is meeting all of the dogs.


About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with longevity in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to last throughout the generations. His favourite part of the job is meeting the dogs, seeing a good before/after and hearing great feedback.

Some Further Reading:


by Steven Johnson 22 February 2026
Our black steel plinths are available to add onto your cooker order if required. They add additional height to the overall Aga dimensions and are available in multiple heights to suit your kitchen design. Traditionally, these British-made Aga Cookers were 851mm from the base to the top of the black enamelled surface. When do you need a plinth? If your worktop or ideal working height is taller than 851mm and you want your Aga Cooker to match them, you'll need a plinth underneath. Brand new Aga Cookers (as well as our ESSE and Everhot cookers) have a fixed height plinth built into the cooker body. If you need these raised higher, you'll need to lay marine-grade plywood or concrete at the required height before installation. What sizes of plinths are available? Our plinths are available in 50mm to 80mm sizes. They also allow for levelling of the base before the assembly of the cooker begins. How do I choose my plinth size? When choosing your required height, you should consider your finished floor height vs your worktop height. It's standard for Aga Cookers to finish slightly proud of the worktop, since the top plate is curved rather than a right-angle ( photo shown below ). If you were to finish level with the worktop, you will have a bigger 'valley' in-between, where crumbs and debris love to collect! Usually, the plinth is seated onto the subfloor, with finished flooring/tiles ran up to and around the plinth once the cooker is built. Alternatively, you can either seat the plinth directly onto the finished floor/tiles, as long as they can bare the weight of the cooker, or we can raise the plinth using the adjustment legs, to allow the finished floor to tuck underneath slightly ( photo shown below). If choosing this option, you should bare in mind the supporting feet in each corner of the plinth start at around 20mm from the front of the plinth. This means your flooring could run underneath for a depth of around 20mm if preferred. After the cooker is built, there are NO adjustments in height, without a strip down and rebuild. What do Aga Cooker plinths look like?
by Steven Johnson 30 January 2026
The internal cavities of Aga Cookers have historically been filled with loose-fill insulation. Inside the cooker body, there are lots of pockets and gaps around the cast iron conductions and burner casings etc. The insulation was poured inside after the build was complete, to rid the cooker of air pockets and insulate the cooker body. Diatomaceous Powder Insulation Early models of Aga cooker, like the Standard models made from the 1950's through to the Deluxe 1974 models (and some post-1974 models), would have originally contained Kieselguhr insulation power (or 'Diatomaceous Earth'). You can identify your model here. This is a fine, talc-like insulation, made from crushed up fossils called diatoms. It's satisfying to touch, but VERY messy to work with and instantly becomes thick clay once exposed to water or moisture. The good news is that amorphous diatomaceous earth is non-toxic. As with anything in powder or dust form - minimising exposure is key. You don't want to be breathing in lung-fulls of any dust or powder. If you're working with it, the proper PPE should be used; not just cloth or paper dust masks. Whilst the loose fill insulation may be ok, these models are still the most at risk for any asbestos exposure. AGA used asbestos rope seals inside their cookers for many years. These seals and gaskets are found inside the body of the older models explained above, and also around the lids and doors. Over the lifetime of these cookers, many of these gaskets and rope seals have been replaced for modern (safe) equivalents. AGA have previously reassured engineers and customers that undisturbed, these seals pose little risk and were of 'dust suppressed' or 'tightly woven' formats. Many of them have been exposed to moisture or grease over time which hardens them, meaning they're less friable in nature. They recommend that really old models of cooker are removed in one piece if possible and disposed of professionally.
by Steven Johnson 27 January 2026
If you need to light your gas aga cooker, follow these instructions to get your aga up and running again. We cover both Maxitrol and Eurosit valves with step-by-step lighting instructions.
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