How to light an Oil Aga Cooker

Looking for Lighting Instructions for Oil Aga Cookers? Just follow the steps below.

At Saltire Cookers, we refurbish traditional models of aga cookers, including oil, as well as gas and our popular electric models.


We also offer Electric Conversions for cheaper running costs, and refurbishments for existing cookers - we're busy boys!



If you need to Light your Oil Aga, we've got some easy-to-follow instructions here. You might need some fresh wicks, as well as clear flue-ways and a serviced burner with carbon build-up removed - but your aga engineer would do this during it's regular servicing appointment.



If your burner is HOT, do not relight it - it's very dangerous! Let it fully cool before trying to light again.




Some pre-lighting checks:


  • A cool burner.
  • Open valves from the tank to the burner.
  • Fresh wicks.
  • Electric plug switched on (if you have one).
  • Clear flue-ways
  • Only use commercial kerosene (BS2869: Class C2 suitable for vapourising burners).



Oil Aga Lighting Instructions:


1. Go to your Oil Control Valve (OCV) located on the side of your Aga Cooker. It can be on the left or the right hand side.


2. The "Reset Lever" is the metal lever sticking out of the back of the OCV. It slides up and down and will 'click' once engaged.

If you have the "BM" OCV (Oval in shape), make sure it's in the UP position.

If you have the "TOBY" OCV (Small, square-shaped), make sure it's in the DOWN position.


Top-View of the Oil Control Valves:

3. You might have a square Electric Box connected to the top of your OCV. This is for automatic oil control. Make sure this plug is turned on, and the Lever on top is switched to "Automatic" (slide to the right side).


4. Open your control door, and remove the inner burner door. Lift the inner door up and out, to remove it from its latches.


5. Wait 15 minutes for the oil to enter the burner chambers and saturate the wicks.


6. Identify the "lighting flap" on the perforated burner shell. It might slide open, or lift open like a flap, depending on the version. Open the flap and light the wick with a match - make sure you don't knock the burner shells as this will affect the burn.


7. Close the lighting flap and re-seat the inner burner door. Make sure it's secure.


8. Switch off the electric transformer plug.


9. After about 30 minutes, look through the viewing glass on the inner burner door and the flames should have settled to a nice blue colour.


10. Switch on the electric transformer plug to resume automatic control.



If your wicks don't light, check that your fire valve hasn't tripped due to any downdraught in the flue.


The fire valve is a circular device with a button and a metal wire entering the aga. It should be located on the oil line, next to your OCV.


Press the button down, to reset the fire valve. If it pops up again, you'll need to wait for the burner temperature to cool before trying again.

About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with transparency and information in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to advise and share knowledge passed throughout the generations.


His absolute favourite part of the job is meeting all of the dogs.


About The Author:


Steven has been working with Aga Cookers since he was helping his father from the ripe old age of 10 years old! He created SALTIRECOOKERS with longevity in mind - a sustainable, family business, built to last throughout the generations. His favourite part of the job is meeting the dogs, seeing a good before/after and hearing great feedback.

Some Further Reading:


by Steven Johnson 30 January 2026
The internal cavities of Aga Cookers have historically been filled with loose-fill insulation. Inside the cooker body, there are lots of pockets and gaps around the cast iron conductions and burner casings etc. The insulation was poured inside after the build was complete, to rid the cooker of air pockets and insulate the cooker body. Diatomaceous Powder Insulation Early models of Aga cooker, like the Standard models made from the 1950's through to the Deluxe 1974 models (and some post-1974 models), would have originally contained Kieselguhr insulation power (or 'Diatomaceous Earth'). You can identify your model here. This is a fine, talc-like insulation, made from crushed up fossils called diatoms. It's satisfying to touch, but VERY messy to work with and instantly becomes thick clay once exposed to water or moisture. The good news is that amorphous diatomaceous earth is non-toxic. As with anything in powder or dust form - minimising exposure is key. You don't want to be breathing in lung-fulls of any dust or powder. If you're working with it, the proper PPE should be used; not just cloth or paper dust masks. Whilst the loose fill insulation may be ok, these models are still the most at risk for any asbestos exposure. AGA used asbestos rope seals inside their cookers for many years. These seals and gaskets are found inside the body of the older models explained above, and also around the lids and doors. Over the lifetime of these cookers, many of these gaskets and rope seals have been replaced for modern (safe) equivalents. AGA have previously reassured engineers and customers that undisturbed, these seals pose little risk and were of 'dust suppressed' or 'tightly woven' formats. Many of them have been exposed to moisture or grease over time which hardens them, meaning they're less friable in nature. They recommend that really old models of cooker are removed in one piece if possible and disposed of professionally.
by Steven Johnson 27 January 2026
If you need to light your gas aga cooker, follow these instructions to get your aga up and running again. We cover both Maxitrol and Eurosit valves with step-by-step lighting instructions.
by Steven Johnson 27 January 2026
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