13amp Aga Cooker

Pre-Install Requirements

Consumer Health and Safety


Before you start, here are some warnings and safety points to adhere to before your cooker is installed/converted.

  • It is the customers responsibility to contact a proficient and qualified electrician to carry out the necessary electrical works required. This work should be adequate for our installation and conform with regulations.


  • It's recommended (but not mandatory) to fit an extractor hood above the cooker, to assist with moisture extraction when cooking. The cooker oven ventilation system is located under the vented shroud box between the two hotplate lids.

  • The internal electric system is designed for 230v, 50Hz, 2.5kW. There are no internal fuses.


  • Since this appliance can be used continuously, there are minimum air gaps and special clearances/protections to adhere to.


Site Preparations

You'll have some prerequisites to complete before we arrive on site. Please ensure these are completed beforehand, so we can confirm your installation can go ahead.


If our engineers arrive on site and cannot safely complete the installation, we'll need to reschedule and impose a failed install charge.


  1. If your existing Aga Cooker is to be converted to the 13amp system, your Oil, Gas and any Hot Water pipes coming from the Aga must be professionally isolated (cut and capped), so that the Aga Cooker is isolated for us to convert. Your local qualified plumber will be able to do this for you. Do not run the cooker with your hot water pipes disconnected.

  2. For new installations, please double check dimensions, floor support, clearances and guidance. The cooker location must be clearly marked for our engineers to start the build. The cooker should not be moved once it is built.

  3. Your electric supply must be in place and operational before we arrive. We'll test your system once it's installed. If the electrics are not available, we can still carry out the build, but cannot test it for functionality. If any faults are then found when the cooker is eventually turned on, we'll need to charge for an engineer visit.

  4. Your floor must be capable of supporting the weight of your Aga Cooker - you may need to consult a structural engineer for advice. 2 Oven models weigh approx 450kg, 3 Oven models approx 500kg, 4 Oven models approx 650kg.

  5. Special heat protection or clearances may be required. Since this appliance can be operated continuously, the wall behind the cooker should be comprised of at least 25mm thick insulation board (Monolux or equivalent), up to the hotplate level, or non-combustible material with a fire rating of 1hr minimum. If the wall is made from combustible material, a 25mm air gap behind the cooker top plate should be implemented. Ensure electric cabling, piping or plastic services do not pass behind or directly above the cooker. This type of material can age prematurely when exposed to continuous higher ambient temperature.

Electric Supply Requirements


Your Aga Cooker will be cabled using 2.5mm 3 core H07RN-F cable (internal cable dimensions).


This appliance must be earthed and connected to a 230v 50Hz power supply.


It is designed to work with a domestic single phase electrical supply.


It is recommended, but not mandatory, to fit an individual RCD to the dedicated cooker supply.


Your Aga Cooker can not run from standard plug sockets.



You must install an MK branded 13amp fused spur switch, or a cooker outlet point on a 16amp circuit (whichever your electrician prefers).

MK is the only brand of fused spur we have found to withstand the constant high loads with a reduced risk of burning out over time. This is why some electricians have chosen to upgrade the supply. The AGA does not have internal fuses.




Electric Supply Positioning


You can see the required setup in the photo here.


Important notes for your electric supply:


  • Your cooker needs to be cabled into either an MK branded 13amp fused spur switch, or a cooker outlet connection point with isolator switch on a dedicated circuit.
  • This needs to be installed low level, to the left or the right of the Aga Cooker.
  • It cannot be located behind the cooker.
  • We cannot trace power cables through walls or worktops etc.
  • No plug sockets or bare wires - the cooker connection point must be fitted for us to connect into.


The correct position for the connection point is within approx 200mm from the side of the cooker (either the left or the right, but not behind the cooker).

Cooker Dimensions & Clearances


The below photos are diagrams from the original AGA Rangemaster installation guides. They are applicable to our Refurbished Aga Cooker models, which may have been retrofitted with the 'always on' 13amp electric conversion system.


All our cookers are internally venting through a small shroud in-between the lids. You can disregard any mention of "Oven Vents" in the below diagrams.


2 Oven and 3 Oven models have the same dimensions.


You MUST have a 3-5mm gap each side of the cooker top plate. This allows for natural deviations in the cast iron, but also allows safe removal of the top plate should maintenance and servicing be required in the future.


You can find all the information on our plinths here: www.saltirecookers.com/plinths.


Delivery and Site Access

Your conversion system (and cooker if applicable!) are delivered in parts, to be assembled on site.


Before you book in, we'll need to know of any access issues or site restrictions, for example:


  • Parking Restrictions
  • Stairs or Steps
  • Long Passageways
  • No Power On Site
  • Safe Site Access.


We may ask for photos of the prepared site prior to any Reconditioned Aga Cooker installations.

After Installation


After installation, we'll give you a thorough run down of the system, how it works and some tips with an opportunity to ask any questions you have. We'll then send you an email summarising the 'quick start' points and a copy of your user guide for future reference.


Your cooker has the same cast iron ovens and hotplates as the traditional models, which will take around 7hrs to heat up from cold.


It has a 'set and forget' style of control system. Once you've found your cooker's optimum setting on the single control dial, you can close the control door and leave it running. The system is designed to run continuously if needed, with the thick cast iron components eventually saturating with heat.


Using the hotplates may affect oven temperatures. The 13amp system is a traditional AGA in all respects - always on and ready to cook, with ample ambient heat into the room. This traditional setup, means that the more you use your hotplates, the more heat is lost from the whole cooker body. You should utilise traditional AGA techniques of using the ovens more than the hotplates (bringing pans to the boil then transferring them to the simmering oven etc).


There may be some smoke and smells during the ‘burn off’ period. After the conversion is complete, we'll set it to the required Burn Off settings. Once the Aga Cooker is turned on for the first time, the sealants and coatings will cure and some starch lagging in the insulation blanket will ‘sweat’. This can emit a strong smell and some smoke, but will dissipate after the cooker has reached temperature for a few hours. You should also wipe away any condensation drips that form on the front plate asap. Leaving these to dry or sit on the enamel can permanently stain it. 


Once the burn off has completed, you can cook to your hearts content. We recommend waiting until smoke and smells stop before using your Aga cooker. We don’t want those sealant smells permeating the food.


There may be little pieces of vermiculite left after we leave. Especially if it's raining outside. Vermiculite is expanded mineral and can be 'squashed' into the floor if it gets wet. It can be removed with a stiff brush or a mop.